Here are few items of general interest that have cropped up over time.




Using Modern Gas Tank Senders with Early Guages " Chevrolet (and GMC) used 0-30 ohm gastank sending units until 1965 (1966 for trucks). After that time, they went to the current 0-90 ohm style sending unit. To use the newer style sending unit (say, after a gastank swap or upgrade) you need a 1 watt (minimum) 47 ohm resistor connected in parallel on the sending unit. This is done by soldering the resistor between the terminal post where the sending unit wire connects and the metal base of the sending unit. This effectively lowers the resistance to the needed 0-30 ohm for the early gauges". Mike Peterman (mike@brotherstruck.com)

Unusuall circumstance, same tip from two different continents within weeks of each other.
Blind Hole Bearing Race Removal
"To remove a bearing race or seal from a blind hole, fill the hole with grease and use an object the same diameter as the ID of the race in the hole. Pressing this into the grease will force the race out. Often a hand arbor press will work, or you can hammer it (not recommended if planning to reuse the race or seal)". Mike Peterman (mike@brotherstruck.com)

"To remove a bearing race from a 'blind hole' ie one that has no provision to punch the race out from the back side, just pack the cavity with stiff grease, select a plain drift that is a slip fit within the ID of the inner ring, and whack gently with a hammer. The grease will 'hydraulic' out the bearing from the housing. The stiffer the grease, the less accurate the fit of the drift need be. (Care needed on very thin alloy sections - possibility of punching out the back of the blind hole...) Peter Scales (peter@sleepy.demon.co.uk)

Removing Snapped off Bolts and Studs"To remove a stud or bolt that has snapped off flush with the surface, place a washer and nut of the same size as the stud, over the broken end, and fill the nut with weld. Use arc or mig, so that it gets good penetraton in the stud end. Leave it to cool for a few seconds, then unscrew it as normal. No damage. The heat also helps unstick the stud." (paul.burgess@westerngeco.com)

Oil Filling without a Funnel "You know those plastic water bottles with the pull tops that unscrew? Well, those fit right onto the new plastic oil bottles just fine. This makes putting a little oil in a lawn mower or a top off in your car real easy and mess free.
If you're lucky you can find one that's real small that will fit down the automatic transmission filler tube. Done right, you won't spill a drop and you won't have a funnel to clean up either." Mark (bogrand_butler@msn.com)

Briggs & Stratton Carb Jet Cleaning "with the jet still in the carb, remove the main jet screw by the jam nut and clean off a bread twist tie down to the bare wire and shove the bare wire through the jet hole to push the junk out of the hole" (Racing340@aol.com)

Rust Cutter "For many decades the best un-freeze I have found for rusty hardware is plain old #1 stove oil.[comparison test omited, but stove oil won. Editor] At 30 cents a litre (Canadian) its also cheap!" Dianne Best (dbest@hydro.mb.ca)

Removing Frozen Bolts "I have found that "canning" wax or old candles work well for removing frozen bolts, especially from cast iron. Heating the area around the bolt and then laying the wax to it until it cools usually allows for the bolt to come out with little or no effort. This also works for other stuck parts but cast iron likes it best." Robert Poet (rpoet@ccainc.net)

Drilling Holes in Hacksaw/Bandsaw Blades "Put a nail in your drill press upside down and bring it down on the spot you want to drill the hole and let it spin against the blade untill the smoke rolls and the blade starts to turn blue around the nail, it'll drill easily. This anneals the hole area without taking the temper out of the blade." Jack Yates.

Bearing Race Removal "To remove a bearing race from a 'blind hole' ie one that has no provision to punch the race out from the back side, just weld a bead on the ID of the race. This will shrink the race and it will then either fall out or come out with very little help. This works for small bearings and very large ones. I have used this on some that where about 10 inches in diameter. You can use either a MIG or stick welder and should weld at least one third of the way around the inside. If that isn't enough just weld some more." Bob Due (bdue@mail.lig.bellsouth.net)

Headlights On Buzzer AC Delco p/n 1728545 This is an extremely small unit, visually similar to a horn relay, but smaller.

Dropping Resistor Echlin p/n BT-6187 Ceramic dropping resistor for operating 6v motors in a 12v environment.

GM Blower Motor Squeel Fix "Drill a little hole in the 'bump' end of the motor where the bearing lives, that fits a standard hypodermic syringe. Fill a three cc syringe with half and half Marvel Mystery Oil and STP, inject it into the bearing over a 3 day period. The bearing won't squeel again for six months to a year depending on use. Whereupon the hole is still there and the syringe in the glovebox." Elvis H.

Tap Extension "You can press a 1/4" nut on to the top of a 1/4" tap. Just put the tap and the nut in a vise between the jaws and turn slowly. You may want to put a rag over the tap in case it were to break. I have done this to about 50 taps and never had a problem. This beats the tap handle for speed and who has a 4' long tap handle. That's what I have when I put my extentions togrther. I work on some pretty strange machines." Eric Bell.


Do you have any Tricks, Tips, or Oddball things to share with the viewership? E-mail: gmguy89@netscape.net


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This Page Created By Alexander M. Bilan (gmguy89@netscape.net)
All Rights Reserved
July 4, 1998
Revision 1.4 February 13,1999