Heres a relatively easy swap given the daunting view when looking at a leanburn equipped vehicle. At most you may want to trace back the wires from the leanburn system and remove them. But given the fact that Chrysler seems to love taping wiring harnessess, you may not want to trace back to the source.
Mopar Performance does/did market an electronic ignition kit. Visit your dealer for availabilty if you want brand new parts. The kit consists of a distributor w/performance curve and ajustable vacuum advance, ballast resistor, wiring harness, orange ECU, some connectors and an instruction sheet for points conversions.
Mopar also sells the above items separately.
Canadian Mopar Performance part numbers (circa 1993) for the kit;
Your alternate source for the parts is your friendly neighbourhood autowreckers. What you will need to aquire is the distributor (with vacuum advance), ECU, As long a length of the ECU wiring harness as you can get, and ballast resistor. Look for a 4 pin ECU--the 5 pin variety will not work. (all new ECU's are 4 pin). Be sure to look for a donor with a single ballast resistor. Also, keep the attaching hardware, you can reuse it for a factory look installation.
Do NOT simply cut out the wiring harness, trace it back so you can remove the two wires running to the distributor connector.
A word on ECU boxes, they are color coded per level of performance. Blue, Orange, Chrome, and Gold. Be warned, aftermarket plain jane replacement boxes are typically chrome or black. If they don't have the Mopar logo, they are aftermarket low performance replacements.
Note, the chrome and gold (not recommend for the street) boxes are race units. Note two, the blue box is not the base box, but common enough to be found. If its not Blue, Orange, Chrome or Gold AND has the Mopar logo, its the base ECU.
To the meat of the swap, heres a basic wiring diagram, note that only two wires will need to be "mated" with existing wiring.
This leaves us with connecting to the vehicles supply for run and start 12 volt sources.
In most cases, you can find the the 12 volt Run wire within the lean burn connector (Pin 2 in my diagram, 14 guage dark blue wire). And, utilize the starter relay. The starter relay has a terminal for Ballast Resistor (12 volt start, brown--not be confused with the other brown wire that goes to the starter solenoid.) The relay terminal layout for the starter relay can be found in just about any manual.
-Be certain to seal any remaining wires you've cut away and tape them out of harms way.
-If you want the quick route, some silicone will seal the leanburn connectors.
-Double check your wiring before applying the electrons.
-The leanburn carb will allow the vehicle to run, some like crap, some reasonably well. Expect to do some carb tuning. Better yet, replace it.
-On some leanburn systems there is a single ballast resistor utilized, which will have some of the necessary wiring already complete. Check the wiring diagram for your car to verify.
Remember to employ all safety precautions when working on any vehicle.
This information is only intended as an overview and may not include all the necessary information, data, or facts to complete the swap.
Remember, every vehicle is unique, and research for your particular vehicle is recomended.
This Page Created By Alexander M. Bilan (firstname.lastname@example.org)
All Rights Reserved
February 16, 1997
Revision 1.9 May 3,1997