Paint * Carts * Skids * Pin Stripes * Decals

I want to spend some time on the topics listed above.  The various paint schemes, decals and carts used to lug this old iron around are varied and any one wanting to make an "As close to original as possible." restoration will be able to remove some of the mystery with this info and these tips.  As always, pictures and info not shown here is always welcome and I try to answer questions in a timely manner.  Hope this info helps your restoration!  Every one has their own tastes for color so please use this as only a guide and enjoy.

Click on the category above that you are interested in to see that info.
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A very commonly asked question is "What color should I paint this thing?"  That is a good question considering and the answer is varied depending on the age of the engine that you are dealing with as well as what size and type engine are you dealing with.  Paint has been a tough issue because the color that Wendel recommends is not exactly right for all Associated engines.  I commend Mr. Wendel for his efforts with so many different paint schemes for so many different manufacturers  One could spend a life time doing just that but, with no dis-respect meant, the orangish red color suggested for Associated Mfr's engines is actually rarely found as original paint on an engine.  More typically you will find original paint to be a dark burgundy red. 

This 4HP engine is one of few I have seen with the original orangish red paint.  Most engines are a darker shade of burgundy red. 

The darker shade of red has been nailed down by British author David Edgington as I.C.I. Dulux Synthetic Coach Finish 'Carnation Red' No. P339-224.  Now that is in Great Britain so I don't know if you give this info to your local paint store if they will have any idea what you are talking about.  I am going to order some of this paint from England specifically to make paper color samples that people can take to the paint store for a color match. So far I have had good results with Rustolium Professional 'Safety Red'  It is a bit more expensive than normal Rustolium and not everyone carries it.   Most home improvement outlets do carry it though.  I have never found it at Wal-Mart.  It is not the perfect color, but a very good substitute.

I am going to divide this by a couple of ways depending on the age of the engine and the type IE air cooled / hopper cooled.  

Typically speaking, the base or bed plate, main bearing caps, flywheels and magneto bracket (If so equipped) on all engines is red.  This will keep me from having to repeat my self several times.  The cylinder head/mixer is always silver till about 1923 with the onset of the Iowa Oversize engines and at that time the cylinder head was painted black and eventually all red.

First, an air cooled cylinder, head, mixer and rocker should all be silver. The side rod and a straight style trip can be bare metal or painted black. The trip, if a G340 Gooseneck style, should be red like the base. I painted the trip on my Hired Man black because I thought it looked good.  Just a personal choice. The face of the flywheels should be bare polished metal.  The gears should be painted black and the exhaust either silver or black.
This picture is a nearly perfect representation of what an Associated air cooled engine, of any size, should look like.  The only call that I see is the front side rod clamp should be painted silver to match the head.  This engine has the tank in the base.

The Johnny Boy was never made with a removable water hopper.  It is cast as one piece with both the cylinder and the base and should all be red. The head, mixer and rocker should all be silver. The side rod and a straight style trip can be bare metal or painted black. The trip, if a G340 Gooseneck style, should be red like the base.  The gears should be black

The Hired man originally had a two piece cylinder/water hopper.  Around 1914 this was changed to a one piece cylinder/hopper.  If the hopper is removable, it should be painted red and everything below the joint should be silver along with the head.  If it is one piece, the entire cylinder/hopper is to be painted red.  The head, if air cooled should always be silver.  If water cooled, it should be red.

This shot of a later Hired Man shows the red water cooled head with bare metal side rod and flywheel face.  The igniter trip should be painted red.  The exhaust can be black or silver and the red mixer goes well with the red cylinder head.    

I have never found an original fuel tank that had any indication that it was painted from the factory.  It should be just plain lead coated sheet metal.

The Three Mule Team was a late comer to the Associated Line and was introduced after the change to the Hired Man that gave it a one piece cylinder/hopper.  The 3MT one piece cylinder and hopper should always be painted red.  To be correct, the cylinder head and mixer should be painted silver, but as stated above, the later engines had a black or all red cylinder head/mixer.

This shot of an early 3 Mule Team in original working clothes shows the correct silver cylinder head/mixer/exhaust and all red cylinder/hopper.  The flywheels have been incorrectly painted gold at some point in time. Note that the side rod forward of the bracket is also painted silver.    

Note also the nice original cart.  This is the number 2 truck with steel angle iron skids.

All engines above 3HP followed the same course of painting so I am going to lump them together here.  The early engines had a red hopper with silver cylinder below the joint of the two piece cylinder/ hopper.  This did not change till the 1914-15 re-design of the Hired Man when the cylinder/hopper was all painted red.  This change may have not been as immediate with the larger engines as the turn over rate at the factory I am sure was slower than the smaller HP sizes.  So a 1916 engine with a  silver cylinder may not be unusual.  And as stated above the cylinder head/mixer remained silver till 1923-24 when engines seem to appear painted all red with no silver to be found.