Here's some pictures of an unknown 2 stroke marine engine. Piston is stuck and crankshaft bent. After squirting oil and other lubricants around the piston for quite a few months I was able to smack it loose with a block of wood and hammer.

Note propeller in upper right of picture.

Flywheel is shown in the upper left of picture.

Big round hole in center of cylinder area is where the muffler would go.

The bracket mounted on top of the cylinder is where I think a round fuel tank would mount.

Pipe fitting and plug on right side of cylinder is where an oiler would mount.

The long bolt coming out of the crankshaft at about the 2 o'clock position is for moving the spark timing mechanism. Engine is able to run both directions, forward and reverse at the prop.

View showing water pump, which works off of an eccentric on a sleeve that slides on the end of the crankshaft.

The propeller shaft would mount in the hole in the sleeve that slides on the end of the crankshaft, shown at bottom of picture.

 

The pictures below show the setup for straightening the crankshaft. I first had the engine out to the end of the legs of the engine lift but it kept picking the lift off the ground. Even with two people standing on the legs of the engine lift. I moved the engine closer to the jack and put more weight out on the end of the engine lift legs.

Engine lift is up on concrete blocks so engine, blocking, and c-channel will fit underneath the legs of the engine lift.

The I-beams on the end of engine lift legs are used to weight it down.

This shows the c-channel running under the legs of the engine lift a little better

A thick piece of rubber was wrapped around the crankshaft so the chain didn't damage it.

This picture shows the blocking that goes from the top of the engine base to the bottom side of the c-channel. This was done to hold the engine down on the ground.

The c-clamp is on the cylinder to allow a place to mount the dial indicator, which is used to measure the deflection of the crankshaft while bending it back straight.

This picture shows the dial indicator, which is mounted to the c-clamp threads.

Chain on left is wrapped around end of crankshaft.

It measured .155 out of round on the dial indicator. This was not out to the end of the crankshaft but up close where the shaft enters the base. Have no idea what it measured out on the end of the crankshaft, but it was seriously bent. It went from .155 to .133, .093, .044, .030, and then got it to .010 and called it good. I was very happy with the results.

Here is the engine tore down after straightening the crankshaft.

Cylinder, piston, and crankshaft. Port that transfers fuel air mixture from crankcase to top side of piston is shown just to the left of the piston.

Top side of piston showing deflector shield. This shield deflects the incoming fuel air mixture up and prevents if from going directly out the exhaust port before being detonated.

Here is a close up of the top side of the piston. Note tooling marks on piston. Port that lets in fuel air mixture is just visible right above the deflector.

Base and crankcase being cleaned up. Filler hole for fuel tank in top left of picture. Fuel line suction tube probably goes in area with pipe plug in the hole. Why the two petcocks? To check fuel level?

This is where the fuel pickup tube would be pulling the fuel from down in there.

 

Below shows the engine back together and mounted on a cart. Old stainless fire extinguisher from a scrap yard used for cooling tank. Cast iron handle from the scrap pile replaced the bolt for the speed/spark control. New fuel line. New 'swing check' installed before the water pump for the incoming water. The water pump has an area for a check ball built right in, just under the pipe plug on top of the water pump. New key installed in the flywheel.

 

 

Below shows the engine running at it's first show.

HOME