We bought this 1968 Airstream GlobeTrotter 20' trailer in about March of 1999, pulled 'er home and immediately started work. I've done some documentation along the way, using my Epson Photo PC digital camera.
Some of these first pictures were taken in March, 1999, just after we got it home; it was still hitched to the old Jeep P/U
Full list of repairs, restorations, and upgrades
As you can see from this CurbSide view, we have the wheel off and the brakes apart. It looks like this from the rear Traffic Side. It had both a front couch/bed and a traffic-side couch/bed, but the latter is removed in this view. The front couch construction is detailed thusly:
Without the cushions
Pulled all the way out
The water pump lives under the front couch, along with the water tank.
After really getting down to work, I built this Dinette, copied from one in an old Winnebago Motor Home. In fact, the table hardware came from that MH. It folds down to make into a single, kinda short bed, with storage under the front seat and some storage under the rear seat. (note the wheelwell!). The water line had to be rerouted to get it off the floor. While I was at it, I added a shelf for my 5" color TV, which is fed from this amplified antenna.
Details of construction: Here's a closeup of the seat w/o cushion, and here's what it looks like inside. Dimensions: Back is 36" high, seat is 15" high X 18.5" deep X 24" wide side to side. Back, front, and near side is 3/4" plywood, back side and covers are 1/2" plywood. Material for both seats and the base on the floor included 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, one sheet of 1/2" plywood, and nearly 40 feet of 1X2 lumber, plus about 200 1.25" drywall screws. All of the 1X2 is screwed & glued in place. Note that the 1X2 around the inside top of the seat boxes is 1/2" down from the top edge; the table supports on the front of the seats is 3/4" down. Table top is 3/4" plywood with a veneer "iron on" edging. Overall length of the dinette is 6'3", as long as I could make it and still extend the front couch/bed.
You can see the table hardware in this shot from underneath, the hooks look like this. This stuff came from a friend's old motorhome, but can be bought new for not much money. The folding table leg had to be cut in two because it's 30" long and won't fold under the 25" wide tabletop. The hardware is fastened to the inner wall and the center rib with "Riv-Nuts" and 10-24 hardware.
Here's a picture of a 6-32 Riv-Nut, both loose and installed in a washer, along with the installation tool. (looks and works much like a Pop-Rivet tool). Also, there's a plastic support for 1/2" copper water pipe; this is what I used to support the water line and will use under the trailer to support the main gas line.
The screen door was originally tied to the outside door with a little strap and a couple of snaps. As it was broken, I came up with this arrangment. This is the "turn knob" that holds the screen door; it's mounted in a 10-32 Riv-Nut.
Jan made nice-looking curtains, but we didn't have the original stuff that holds them against the wall. This is a bit of a pain, especially at the dinette, so instead of duplicating the original (I understand they used an elastic strap and other paraphenalia), I went with magnets. Here's one of the magnets, held to the curtain with double-sided carpet tape (7 per curtain), and here's a curtain "glued" to the wall by the magnets. Note the galvanized strip for the magnets to stick to.
The galley looks like this, and is located on the Curb Side. Note the glass cutting board that has replaced the old filler panel to give some counter space.
Here's the bathroom.
And the front couch has a new slipcover, plus you can see Jan's new curtains. A bit nicer than the old green ones seen above, huh?
I picked up a solar panel at the '99 Dayton Hamvention, along with a charge controller. Here's the backside, showing the support frame, here it is in use, and here's the way the support frame looks. There's 2 sets of holes in the frame to allow different angle settings. The controller looks like this, next to the Univolt in the rear.
The bumper compartment looks like this, and here's the sewer hose holder. It's a 5' long piece of PVC drain pipe with the one end cap glued on, the other pinned with an aluminum gutter nail. It's held to the top of the bumper compartment with screendoor springs. Here's another shot of the rear, taken at a different time.
I made a wood step box from nominal 1X12 lumber that's about 36" long. The bottom is recessed by 1/2" to make it sit better on the ground; it has anti-skid material on the top, and opens to hold the chocks and leveling blocks.
She's ready to roll, with the 'new' Dodge truck, from the Curb Side, and from the Street Side. And here's a shot of just the trailer from the Curb Side.
We put 2 layers of fiberglass cloth on the inside of the front awning/stone guard and painted it with a light grey paint. Looks good, if I do say so myself.
The regulator crapped out and was replaced with this unit. Also replaced the steel lines with hoses as you can see here.
As this is a single-axle trailer, these Safety Hoops are imperitive to keep the wheel from hitting the ground in case of a flat or blowout.
Some old Airstreams used what are called "Split Rim" wheels. Although my A/S doesn't have them, my old forklift does. Here's a picture of the outside of the wheel; note the ring that retains the tire bead. If you look closely at the inside, you can see the split in the rim itself. These things are extremely dangerous for the tire installer; if the ring isn't seated exactly right in the groove, it can pop off while the tire is being inflated, causing serious injury or even death.
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