Here's some reference info & tips that were useful while
working on my engine:
-The Taylor Vacuum Engine registry
?? -Denis Rouleau's brief history of the Taylor Vacuum Enginehttp://buzzcoil.brinkster.net/taylor/page531.html -Denis Rouleau's online Taylor A Manual, including parts diagram
http://buzzcoil.brinkster.net/taylor/page532.html -Denis Rouleau's online Taylor C Manual, including parts diagram
-Wico magneto info at Harry's Old Engine site
-FAQ hosted by Steam Engine of Australia- info on oiling,
maintenance, operation, & restoration.
-Archive keyword search for the SmokStak old engine discussion board
-Hit and Miss Enterprises, antique gas engine parts, has a
downloadable catalog, etc.
-Lee Pedersen's online catalog of oilers, wire, ignition parts, gas
tanks, literature. I always wind up buying something at his
booth each year at the Canandaigua, NY show. A nice, helpful
-scan of Sandwich engine manual- good general engine care &
info, incl. Wico magneto
-scan of Hercules engine manual- good general engine care & info
-Gas Engine Magazine article describing the history of the Taylor
-The "slow running engine" thread from the Smokstak bulletin
board (as submitted to Gas Engine Magazine)- this was *amazing* info for me. It really helped me
understand the relationship between engine timing and rated/normal
running speed. Basically, it's possible to destroy
your engine if you don't make adjustments to the spark
timing while adjusting the governor speed adjusting screw. Quite an eye-opener.
In summary: you'd better back off on the spark advance if you're
trying to make the engine run slow or it'll kick itself so hard the
crankshaft, flywheels, or gears will break.
I also now understand how somebody can break an arm when using a
starting crank handle- if you forget to retard the spark when
starting the engine, it could fire at say 35 degrees before TDC, but
if you aren't turning the flywheel fast enough when this happens
(not enough inertia to keep spinning by itself), it could kick
BACKWARDS, swing the crank around and hurt you.
Book: The Small
Single-Cylinder Gas Engine, F.B. Wright (a reprint from Hit
& Miss Enterprises)
This is an EXCELLENT booklet, explaining all the details of small
open-crank gas engines, 4 cycle operation, how hit and miss
governors work, how to take apart, reassemble, and time the engine,
all in 51 pages. I bought this years before I got my first
engine, and it's taught me a lot.
Farm Gas Engines and Tractors, Fred R. Jones, 4th ed., c.
Book: Traction Farming and Traction Engineering, James
H. Stephenson, c.1917
Book: Farm Engines and How to Run Them,
James H. Stephenson (c. 1903, but still available via reprint)
American Gasoline Engines Since 1872, C.H. Wendel, c.1983,
-scan of "Complete Instructions and Parts List for Care and
Operation of Type EK Wico Magnetos"
Keywords to find more information on the web: "gas engine", "stationary engine",
"farm engine", "hit and miss", "hit &
miss", "gasoline engine"
Search your local library's catalog for the keywords
mentioned above. Large, main branch libraries usually have
books from the early 1900s with lots of period information.
How to use grease cups: "Where grease cups are used the caps
or plungers should be screwed down at least two turns each
hour. If a small quantity of graphite, about one tablespoonful
to one pound of grease is used, one full turn of the cap or plunger
each hour will be sufficient. The graphite and grease should
be thoroughly mixed before filling the cup." -from Traction
Farming and Traction Engineering, by James H. Stephenson, M.E.,
A person needs only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If
it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Pipe size vs. actual measured dimensions- see chart at http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html
This page was instantiated Oct. 14, 2004, and last
updated June 14, 2012
Text copyright 2004-2012.