what I believe is a 1912 Waterloo Boy engine, 2 1/2 HP (flywheels are
22" in dia, piston is 4 1/4" ).
greasy-engine pix are from the day I brought it home from the barn
(June, 2011); I've cleaned it up a bit since then, but still have more
to do. I've since obtained a correct reproduction crank
gas tank says simply "The Cub", and looks like a nice farmer fix; I
think this comes from an old Coldwell Cub lawnmower.
picked up a solder-on spout and cap from Lee Pederson to attempt to fix
can see this apparently started life as an ignitor engine, and someone
has converted it to a spark plug.
spark plug was finger tight, and when I took it out, it seems it had
never been used. I'm wondering if this spark plug conversion was
abandoned, and the engine put into storage at that time. I
later noticed that this is a nice take-apart plug!
sure if this is a factory spark plug conversion trip mechanism, a third
party kit, or some sort of farmer fix associated with the spark plug
conversion- it is very cleanly made. I have several photos of WB
engines, and none have this sort of trip.
identified this roller thing as a Model T ignition part!
by Weaver Hardware, in Rochester! I believe that store went
out of business in May, 1918.
the silvery "shield" decal on the hopper, which I can't quite read. In
the sun, I can see that the scroll on top says "The Waterloo
actually bought this Dobson butter churn first, from the same barn- it
is the very one that
this engine used to run:
while I'm at it, here's a Waterloo
Boy price list I found at the public library- what a great
find!! This engine cost $68 new. Note the mounting
options- Wood skids,
Hand-Portable, Horse-Portable, or Iron Sub-Base.
progress with getting the cast iron pulley collar off. I
gently drove a screwdriver in between
the collar and the
flywheel, and it's now 1/2" out from where I started.
I succeeded in removing the pulley collar tonite
by gently hammering in ever-wider chisels,
Liquid Wrench as I went, then finishing it off with a wooden block hit
with the hammer,
hundreds of times. :-)
I can see that the jib key has no head (surprisingly), and that it has
shims under it that look like they've backed out a bit. I
suspect this is why it's loose.
I don't see any cracks in the
flywheel, thankfully. The gib key has a little play side to side
well- I can just fit a .010 feeler gauge in there.
got some time to work on this engine. I used a plastic
putty knife and managed to scrape off the 80 year old dried grease from
engine. I want to scrape off as much dry grease as I can
start to use a cleaner or oil the engine. I wiped off the
and found it's a nice brass number 3 (size), made by G.B. Essex Brass
Co., Detroit, Mich.
I bought it, I noticed one flywheel was loose a tiny bit- I could
rotate it a bit on the shaft.. I've taken off the pulley and
collar, and found out why- the key seems to be about 3 thousandths too
narrow in width. Plus, it's got a metal shim for height.
also has no head; will be difficult to get out.
today I tried (again) to get the gib key out of the loose flywheel- I
vise grips, a pry bar, and tapping. I then noticed that the
keyway on the shaft had a ding in it where the pulley set screw had
it. I got a very thin Dremel cutoff wheel and gently ground
channel straight, that worked!, I got it out! It was
key. It was not driven thru to the other side of the flywheel
hub, what was in there was too short. You can see the hunk
out of it to accommodate
the pulley collar. The other flywheel has a key
with a head on
it, but it's nice and tight, but does have a shim under it.
going to leave that one alone! Here's the key I removed:
I later figured out
that the reason it had no head was so that the pulley collar would fit
tight against the flywheel.
Rob Gill (on
smokstak.com) helped me figure out what size key was correct for this
engine, and I ordered a couple new ones, professionally made, from Hit
and Miss Enterprises. Before I install the new key, I need to
remove the flywheel and clean and de-burr the gib key channel in the
crankshaft and in the flywheel.
Finally got a Round Tuit again... there
damage to the shaft or flywheel collar or key channels. A while ago I
correct, tapered replacement key with a head (from Hit and Miss)- two
in fact- a 3/8" X 3.5 inch and a 3/8" X 4 inch (whichever one worked
best I was going to use), plus some .002" shim stock, just in case. I
cleaned the key channels wonderfully- the key slides smoothly on both
shaft and in the collar.
I have absolutely zero
experience with gib keys, and I had imagined that I'd put some bluing
on the new key, slide it in, tap it, then check and lightly file until
I got the fit perfect. Nice plan, but I find that the brand new key
won't fit in the flywheel collar slot, AT ALL- the key seems too tall.
When I line up the flywheel and shaft channels, the height of the
resulting key hole is a smidge shorter than the tip of my new key. The
tip of the key is ~0.336" tall.
I'm supposing that I
will need to carefully, evenly, file down the non-tapered bottom side
of the key until it fits in, but I'm not sure how much material to file
off the key. I don't know what a proper fit should look and
I finally got some time to work on this engine again this Spring. As noted above, it turns out
that the brandy-new absolutely correct gib key didn't fit my particular
engine. The width and length were perfect, but it was too high,
and I couldn't even get it started into the flywheel hub slot- see
photo above. I now have researched how it's supposed to fit and
needed to mill it down some more. And I don't own a milling
Last summer, I didn't have any measurements of my actual setup (I
wasn't prepared for the milling to happen so soon), but my friend Al S.
from the Marion engine club took a stab at it. He milled it down
nicely but the milling machine was at his house and the engine at mine,
so we couldn't actually try it and fit it on the spot. Once home,
that was much better, but would still only go in about 1/4 of the way-
not nearly enough. I thought hey, no problem, I can just file it
down- and I tried just that. Holy cow. I had a very sharp
file, and believe me, it would take a month of daily filing to take off
as much as I needed. I needed to mill it some more. This
time I bought a digital caliper and took very precise measurements of
what I needed (the key is tapered in height). Al lives pretty far
from me, so I put up a sign at work this Spring asking if anybody
had a milling machine, thinking that somebody might have a metalworking
hobby. 5 minutes after I put up the sign, Bob B. showed up and
that's when I discovered that there was a milling
machine just down the hall at my workplace! This was quite
surprising as we work with software, and who would have guessed that
they had a milling machine kicking around for hardware prototyping?
Half a lunch
hour later, it was milled again, and when I took it home it slid in
perfectly. Then I discovered that the slot in the crankshaft was
.007" wider than the slot in the flywheel; I hadn't noticed that
the flywheel width was perfect. 7-thou was plenty of slop for the
flywheel to still be loose.
So I took an old stainless steel feeler gauge- a really long one-
and cut it with snips. I slid it in next to the key and tapped it
in. And... the key dragged the shim all the way in and crumpled
it at the end. Sigh. Pull key back out (I found I had an
oddball chisel that worked perfectly for this; maybe it's an old gib
key puller, who knows), back to the drawing board. Cut a new
shim.. there's no room to grab the end to keep it from being dragged in
(and I didn't want to oil the key), so I made the shim L-shaped, so
that it would just catch on the outside of the flywheel. This
worked perfectly. I tapped the key all the way in (well, as in as
I wanted to go), with the shim the entire length inside the crankshaft
[insert new key photo here]
[insert key removal tool photo here]
I'm really trying to get this engine running before my local club show at the end of the month. There
is a very nice farmer-fix fuel system on this engine (using an old
Coldwell Cub lawn mower gas tank) that I love, but the gas tank has no top. I
have a new cap and neck I picked up from Lee Pedersen, but I need
to take it to a radiator repair shop to see if they can sweat it on; I
don't have equipment or skill to do that. In the mean time, I
wanted to take the Cub tank off and attach a temporary tank between the
flywheels in back (where the Waterloo Boy gas tank would normally go).
I have a good modern (well, 1970s) rectangular tank with fuel shutoff from my
neighbor's junked snowblower. Now that the old fuel piping is
removed, I find that the iron elbow that connects the Lunkenheimer
mixer to the head is loose at the head. Loose by about 1/4 turn.
You can't just tighten it a quarter turn because then the mixer
would not be hanging at the proper orientation. Not quite sure
what I could use to tighten it up- maybe some teflon tape. I've
asked the Smokstak guys for advice on this. While taking things
apart I discovered that there is an inline check valve marked:
[insert check valve photo here]
I wonder what this check valve originally went to. It rattles nicely, so it seems like it's going to be ok.
also discoverd a lot of debris blocking the fuel line for several
inches up near the tank. I was wondering if this junk fell in
after the tank cap was lost or if this was the reason why the engine
was retired by the original owner- plugged fuel line. (The Cub
tank has no filter screen.)