||This is the local High School metal
shop; the instructor is an
engine collector also, and has made many engine
this basic design. In the past we used the
36" slip roll designed
for 18 gauge sheet metal, the ¼" thick
bands were a real strain
on the machine. Another engine friend gave us
this roller that
was originally hand powered, and now is powered
by a metal
lathe chuck in the back gears. Time and effort is
||We decided that the rear wheels
should be 12" in diameter,
requiring bands of 37 5/8". These were cut
and the ends smoothed.
||The bands are fed through the
rollers, and on each pass the top
roller is lowered a turn of the crank to increase
the bend. Here
John Hughes is tailing off the bands. This cart
is for his IH LA.
||As the circle closes up the top
roller is lowered ¼ turn on each
pass until the ends touch.
||The first and last three inches do
not get curved as much as the
rest of the band because of the gap between the
wheels, this part must be bent into shape with a
hammer and a
||The ends were MIG welded together and
ground smooth on both
||The hubs had been previously made out
of 2" cold rolled steel.
The hole is 1". Sometimes a cheap supply of
¾" or 1" ID ball
bearings can be found, when pressed into a larger
hub make a
smooth rolling cart.
||The spokes are made from ½"
black pipe. We decided to use five
spokes because the front wheels were eight inches
and six spokes wouldn't fit. The spacing for the
||This is a view down the line of
lathes and mills. It is easy to do
good work when you have the correct machines.
Here John is
cleaning the welding splatter off the wheels.
||Here are the finished wheels, sand
blasted and ready for paint.
The front wheels were made first out of eight
inch pipe that John
had on hand.
||These axles were made from 1½"
round bar material , the ends
were turned down to 1" to go in the hubs.
Frequently we make axles from ¾" cold
rolled pressed inside ¾" black pipe and
plug welded in place. The pipe provides the
shoulder for washers, then the wheels, and an
outside washer and cotter key.
A hole is drilled in the center of the axle for a
pivot bolt, the head is welded on the bottom. The
reinforcing brace is 3/8" round stock. The
round pivots are flame cut from flat stock, a
hole is drilled in the center and mounted on a
bolt mandrel in the lathe and turned round.
||The frame of this cart is made from
2" channel iron (we usually
use 3"). The ends are fish mouthed and band
iron is rolled to make the loop to secure the
cart for transport.
||Here the frame is set on the wheels
and axles for a quick look.
||The wheels are spaced up to allow
correct measurements for the
rear axle supports, made from ¼" band iron.
||Tack welding the axle supports in
||Starting to look like a cart.
||Front axle cross brace tacked in
place, made to have cart level.
||Rear brace for the front axle tacked
||The tabs for the tongue welded in
place. I prefer these to stick out further so
when the tongue leans back it will stay in place
and not fall down.
||Close up of front bolster assembly. A
little grease between the two discs and it should
steer like a dream.
||Tongue installed, give it a slight
bend so it will lay flat on the ground.
||Finished cart. Bad perspective,
better shot to follow.
Comments? Contact Ron at:email@example.com