
Making a replica Wolseley
Type "R" silencer.
|
The original cast iron
silencer was missing from my engine when I got it so I decided to make
my own "reasonable facsimile". Apart from a Chinese lathe
and a drill press I have no other metalworking machine tools so this
had to be made using available tools. These included an angle grinder,
hacksaw, welding machine and a homemade disk linisher. All parts used
came from scrapyards with the exception of the bolts and gaskets. The hardest part was finding domes of the correct size but I eventually found a small gas bottle at a scrapyard that had 114mm O.D. domes (12.7 mm smaller) and decided to use this. I also had an old rusty piece of pipe which fitted perfectly to these ends. Using the diagram from the parts manual of this engine,
a drawing from Peter Lowe in Australia and a silencer from a friends 3
H.P. engine I redrew the silencer on my CAD programme but now using the
avilable parts. I never
managed to establish the correct diameter for the 6 H.P. silencer but
after some research decided that it was probably about 5" (127 mm)
diameter. I changed the baffle pipe from a single (loose fitting) pipe
in the original design and rather used 2 pipes which met in the middle
with the top one being removeable (see sketch).
I can remove the top baffle pipe (just for fun) if I want a bit more
noise but the engine does have a lovely sound with the baffle in place. The gas bottle was cut with an angle grinder,
leaving a small part of the inner pipe in place (this would help in
locating the new "body"). I machined a hole in each
dome for the inlet and outlet pipes.
The next part was to be the most difficult. This was making the flanges
for the top of the silencer. These are not just the normal diamond
shaped flanges one normally sees but have a concave
shape near the bolt holes. (I know that it would have been very
easy to just have these laser cut but that would not have been as much
fun).
I started with two 16mm thick x 120mm round "dropouts" from the
local
scrapyard and machined a hole in each for the outlet. In one 1 machined
out a concave section where it would fit over the dome. (See pic). I then marked the shape of the flange
with a piece of self adhesive vinyl and drilled the
bolt holes and then tapped the holes in the
lower flange. This work was all done under the watchful eyes of my three faithful assistants, Thai, Smudge and Jinja. Then
with the two bolted together I drilled a series of
holes all round the shape to make it easier to cut out with an
angle grinder and then started hacking away with the angle grinder
until I was pretty close to the shape I wanted. Next I marked off and drilled the baffle holes in the lower part of the inlet pipe. Before cutting this pipe to length I loosely assembled and aligned all the parts and welded the bottom dome in place. Here is a pic of all the
bits loosely assembled and beginning to look
like something. Thereafter
I cut the inlet baffle pipe to length and welded a nice
rusty collar [;-)] to it for the top pipe to
locate in and reassembled and welded it all together. My camera
battery also went flat so there are no pics af the last bit of work. I
welded the top flange to the dome and plugged the threaded bolt holes
with a wooden dowel while I filled the bit between the "ears" of the
flange with welding and ground them to shape with an angle grinder. The
"tailpipe" was welded to its flange and the 2 removeable baffle tubes
were made. The one with holes is blocked off at it's base and the other
is a "freeflow". I welded two lugs with holes to them to aid in
removal. Here is a pic. Here
is a pic of it nearly finished. The reflections
in the pic make it look a lot worse than it is and there is still a
little weld filling and shaping to be done but I'm pretty happy with
the result. |
