Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 21


Really warm and humid tonight, but went up after tea and got the panel finally wired up and everything in place.

Haven't set the charge resistor, and that will be a pain to get at, but it should be OK for a couple of amps to start with, in fact it will be just over an amp. The resistor in circuit is about 8ohms, we have 36V available and a 26/27V battery.

Knocked up some labels with the Brother P-Touch machine, we use 36mm black on white which is a pretty good match for the powder coat of the front panel.

Meters are all bolted in, earth connection to the cabinet, haven't put fuses in yet.



Much too hot to work outside today, it was roasting!

Went back up to the factory this evening after it had cooled off a bit, and got to work.

The main job was to get the control cabinet wired in, and hopefully some of the wiring tested out. It was a bit late to run anything, but the 24V side could be checked and so on.

Knocked a hole for the gland and got the cable into the alternator box, then connected up everything, except the charging lead. On the Start-O-Matic, the upper control box has a charge relay which cuts the link between the battery and the charge output connection when the engine is stopped. This prevents the battery discharging into the starter motor/dynamo side of the unit.

The charge disconnect relay is controlled by an engine speed sensor which we don't have, so we have put a 40A blocking diode between the battery charge output and the battery, which does the same job. Lister would not have had access to such devices in those days when the Start-O-Matic was designed.

Once that was done, I powered it up from the battery, and then had a 'Senior Moment' or three :whistle:

When the battery is turned on, the battery voltmeter should show volts, but I had to put a fuse in the battery feed first. Still no volts.

Then I remembered that the neutral/earth/24-ve was also fused, so popped a fuse in there. Nothing. M

Got the voltmeter out and started tracing connections etc etc., until the penny dropped - I hadn't turned the isolator switch on! Doh!

Once that was on, the battery volts came up OK, reading a little high compared with it's performance on the bench, but then I remembered that I hadn't fitted the new series resistor yet, so will have to do that tomorrow.

Getting dusk by the time I packed up, took a couple of pics:



aturday - Lazy start, had a lay-in :-))

Looked to be another hot day, so got up to the factory about 10 or so.

First job was to finish off the voltmeter, which meant taking it all to bits again and adding a 27 ohm resistor in series with the coil, to up the range from 25V to 30V. Didn't take too long, just a pain to have to do it, but it was my error.... :embarassed:

Picture of the job below, just for completeness.

Corrected a couple of small wiring matters, then gave the engine a good long run to see how the revised cooling tank top performed, and also to see how good the charge rate was on the alternator.

Got it well warmed up, the new top works really well, but we noticed that the shelf that the tank sits on was also flexing, giving the tank more movement, so we resolved to fix that later. The surface area remains the same as before, but the splashing up the sides just hits the top and falls back into the tank. There are two drain holes to let water back IN, in case any quantity gets out, but in practice it was fine and losses almost zero. We still have our bit of floating plywood, very effective.

Got the temperature up around the 90's then it ran out of diesel!

After lunch and feeding the nags, during which time we collected a jerrycan of diesel, we drained the system down and drilled and tapped two more holes for the shelf fixing beneath the water tank. That stiffened it up quite a bit. We also put OAT coolant in there, more for anti-corrosion properties than anything else.

About 4 O'clock we were ready for another bash, and after a start up it ran for 5 minutes then we lost all the electrics :shocked:

That took a while to find. The output went to zero, as did the battery charge, and we had no indications anywhere of what it may be. After a lot of prodding around, we saw what looked like an arc trace in the head of a countersunk 2BA screw. This particular screw earths the 24V DC side of the alternator to ground, and there had been a failure between the braided wire from the brush carrier and the casing.

In the end, we cut the braid end off, crimped a standard copper tube lug on, opened the hole up to 6mm and put a new M6 bolt with external star washers to ensure a good bite into the metal.

Once that was done, it ran for 3/4 of an hour with 1.5kW loading, we had upped the charge rate a touch, but will probably do it a little more. The cooling tank is not nearly as mobile now, and we were up to nearly 90 degrees fairly quickly.

The Poly-Groove belt is chirping a bit, might have to adjust that, but apart from a bit of a whine from the alternator fan, it is pretty quiet. The exhaust temperature never goes above 300 deg F, but we are only taking a few HP, so it isn't really working hard.

Packed up at 18.15, had enough for one day.


Rebuild 1 Rebuild 2 Rebuild 3 Rebuild 4 Rebuild 5 Rebuild 6 Rebuild 7 Rebuild 8 Rebuild 9
Rebuild 10 Rebuild 11 Rebuild 12 Rebuild 13 Rebuild 14 Rebuild 15 Rebuild 16 Rebuild 17
Rebuild 18 Rebuild 19 Rebuild 20 MainRuston Menu