Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 17


After the showers of Sunday, I did manage to get the rev-counter support moved, and its new home is between the exhaust and the flywheel. This keeps the drive pulley and belt in the same place as before, just moved forward of the flywheel instead of aft. The picture shows the rev-counter and the temperature gauge closer than they are in real life.

While at Nuenen we had a lot of noise from the bevel gears in the rev-counter head, and while a folded piece of cardboard did the job over the weekend, by taking the gears out of mesh, I wanted to try and resolves the situation by mechanically means, assuming that we had a meshing problem with the bevel gears.

I also traced the successors to Harding Leeds Ltd., a company called Foundrometers Instrumentation Ltd., also in Leeds. A quick chat with one of their guys told me that they had no records or drawings from the Harding days, a real shame as Hardings supplied all the steam and big industrial engine makers with instruments.

Another look inside the rev-counter showed that the gears were correctly meshed and nothing obvious was showing at all. It was suggested that we run them together with a bit of fine grinding paste, something which I am not that keen on, but if it cures the problem then it is probably worth a try.

Some of the Harding Leeds Ltd heritage is in their works and the Italianate towers therein, see: Harding Info I know the place as we dealt with Jarvis Ltd when they had a place in Holbeck, close by.

The other job was to do something about the water outlet on the block, which was loosening and leaking, and the temperature gauge olive which wouldn't tighten up properly. A custom plastic spacer cured the first one until we could get a back to back taper connector, which was the joint between the block outlet and the T-piece for the gauge, and a bit of grease around the stainless steel olive enabled it to close up properly and grip the temperature gauge stem properly.

I should be collecting the new control box this evening, so can make a start on getting that mounted up on some large rubber anti-vibration mounts.



Got a free day at last!

The ali angle extrusion hasn't turned up yet, so I cannot mount the control cabinet, but plenty of other things to look at and sort out.

The new belt arrangement is fairly compact, and there's not a lot of room to fit a tensioner/guide pulley anywhere, but fortuitously, one of the existing mountings and tensioner will just sit down by the suspension of the middle axle, and lifts the belt just up over the metalwork therein.

Got the holes drilled, found that the chassis was more than thick enough to tap M10, so popped three mounting threads in there.

Bolted it all up, but the guide pulley was too far out and caught on the Poly-V belt, so we had a couple of goes at adjusting the thickness of the mounting spacer, and came up with a working solution.

Got everything back together, had to replace the modified wiring on the control box so that the Start-O-Matic alternator/starter ran the right way again.

Then gave it a quick spin to see what happened! Started first go, all the belts seemed happy enough, will get all the wheels back onto the trolley and the blocks underneath, then give it another run to see if we can get any output from the alternator.


13/06/2010 Continued

Had a longer run afterwards, about 20 minutes or so, just to see if anything significant happened with the belts and pulleys, but nothing of note.

One thing we do notice is that the tensioner pulley deposits aluminium on the back of the V belts, more on this setup than before, so on Monday I'll scrounge some PTFE bar and make the outer pulley liners out of that, will also raise the ends a bit as the belts ride over to that side.

We found the clamp for the water tank lid, and ran it for a while with the lid tight and full with water, and it seemed to slow the rate of temperature rise, we had it up to 60 deg c before shutting down.

I suspect that we will probably make a 'chimney' for the tank so that the water splashing isn't so much of an issue.

Haven't got into the electrickery yet, just waved a testmeter at the alternator but nothing showing immediately, more on that tomorrow.

Managed a few jobs before the Canadian Grand Prix started.

First job was to have another look at the rev-counter gears. I stripped the top off the base and had a close look at the bevel gears again. There's not really a lot to see, other than the contact point of the gears is a small area rather than contact along the tooth.

I did take the edges off the gear teeth tops, and cleaned out the teeth roots, which seemed to improve matters. Greased up the gears and put it back on the engine and got the drive belt shortened. Still not happy with the joining alligator clips which I think are too large, but I put it all back on and it ran, although the pulleys are not showing as being in line, so will have to make up some new longer support spacers tomorrow. The belt is too loose, got to shorten that a bit.

Also went through the wiring again on the alternator to see if we had any errors on connections, but it all looked fine. I grabbed a shot of the sliprings and commutator while the cover was off, all looks fine in there.

That was about it, went back home to watch a great F1 race.

The Ali angle turned up early, so that was a bonus, whipped it back home to cut on the Rapidor and got it in place with the cabinet and rubber mounts on top.

Couldn't finish it all off, but it all looks fine, just got to drill the front bar and get it secured, then will paint of powder coat to match the main chassis.



The 2" box section is 5mm wall, so just drilled and tapped it, no point in putting a bolt right through.

The control box will be painted in green or black, it's a bit bright in RAL7032! Once in place, I can get the heavy wiring laid under the front of the chassis and out of sight.


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