Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 17


Tried a quick reassembly for the two ammeters, picture below. The flanges have yet to be primed and painted.


Got all the scales fitted back to their respective meters, and have contacted a couple of companies about getting a replacement glass for the broken one. Surprising how many companies there are in that field! Also need another can of etching primer to do the meter flanges and get those finished.

The cabinet is already here, we are using a standard Sarel industrial IP65 cabinet, and will have the meters and controls inside, so that the door will seal the electrics inside when it is not in use.

A mounting frame with anti-vibration mounts will carry it over the top of the alternator, in place of the existing control box.

We are mulling the implications of reversing the alternator position so that it can run in its correct rotation, but I don't think we have sufficient clearance behind the new flywheel to get the twin belts in, and we don't really want to take that flywheel off again....

P*ssing with rain as I type, but the rest of the week doesn't look too bad.



Quiet for the rest of the week, so a bit of time to get the layshaft drive worked out and made. To reverse the alternator/starter position, we need to change everything around from one side to the other, so that we have the drive wheel on the 'spectator side' and the alternator pulley away on the other side.

This has implications for the rev-counter pulley and belt also. We can probably move that to the front side of the engine. The two bearing blocks are fine where they are, but we will need to think about how we adjust the twin belts, as they will be outboard of the 'new' flywheel and away from the chassis frame.

A new layshaft will be needed as both pulleys are now outboard of both flywheels and the existing shaft is too short. We have organised that as the first job and will get the other parts stripped off while we are waiting for that to be turned out of 2" bar stock. Our little 5" lathe won't look at that!

Most of the rest of the parts will be re-used, so apart from the mountings for the alternator, we don't have a lot of new stuff to get made up. The existing alternator cabling changes will be undone, so the alternator will revert to standard.

The cabinet for the meters is already here, just have to draw up a panel for it so it can be mounted inside the front of the cabinet, then closing the door will keep everything inside dry.

Nicely warm outside this afternoon, stripped off the layshaft, belts, rev-counter etc., and then moved the alternator to roughly where it will need to be, hanging out a bit of the 'new' flywheel side.

It doesn't look too bad, it's a toss-up between taking the flywheel off, which I don't want to do now it has been Loctited on, or hanging the drive belts outside the flywheel face. To get the flywheel off now, I'd have to make a large puller that would break the Loctite seal to the shaft, and while I have the materials to do it, I don't really want the hassle.

I've got some pictures but left the Memory Stick at work, so will post tomorrow morning.



Here are the pictures as promised:

The drive wheel now fitted on the opposite side of the engine, note that the flywheel key sticks out a lot on this side (the other side is a flush key)

The 'new' flywheel with no drive wheel or rev counter pulley. No key head either.

The alternator has been rotated on the chassis and we are looking for a position where it will be possible to drive it with the twin V-belts, but they will be outside the flywheel.

Closer shot of the alternator and 'new' flywheel, the rev-counter pulley is loosely fitted for now.

Two shots from the rear, the alternator is front-heavy so has to have a strap around it to stop it from falling over!

Closer shot of the alternator in its new position.


Had to go up to Leicester and across to Brum this morning, but had a phone call while on the road to say that the new shaft was ready, which is pretty damm good work by our machinists!

Dropped a couple of cold 4-packs into their workshop :-))

Dropped straight in, hooked up the Poly-V belt and checked for clearance against the trolley wheel/tyre, that looks fine, around the other side we have plenty of adjustment to take the alternator out some more to get a clear run for the two V-belts and to run the tachometer belt on that side as well.

Pictures below:

It is scorching outside right now, our little yard is a right sun-trap in the right conditions, so I'll probably wait until it cools off a bit.

Those with sharp eyes will notice a small radiator on the trolley. That is from a Honda CX500 (Plastic Maggot - [url][/url]) which I'm going to do some experimenting with once we have the engine running on load.



Had a bit of a brain fart last night, possible we could do both drives on the same side, so that all the belts etc are behind the engine.

Been down for a sub-station site visit to Watford this morning, just got back, it's damm hot out there!

Possibly the two drives on the one side might make things a little easier for us as far as keeping it all out of the way.

I'll be back up to the factory in the morning to start getting the control box mountings sorted out.



Quite a hot and stuffy day outside, but nice to have dry weather that you can work outside in, so shouldn't complain! We rolled the trolley off the trailer for the first time since returning home, it came off with no trouble at all.

Firstly we dropped the adjustable slotted mounts for the alternator, and decided that a pair of 2" box section cross-mounts would do the job, using the existing rollers to keep the tension in the twin belts.

We didn't have any new box section handy of that size, but we did have two old display stands that were made for holding up one of our charger cabinets for exhibitions, and they hadn't been used for over 10 years....

Chopped off one end and set it all up on the chassis with the alternator in place, held by the engine crane. The big benefit is that we now have a good mounting area for the control cabinet, and I was able to pick up a nice Sarel IP55 cabinet on fleabay for the huge sum of 1.20, list price is over 50.

Went back home, chopped the box section to length and drilled it to suit the alternator. Then bolted it all down and set up the horizontal alignment with the drive end pulley. This other pulley has a lot of leeway in position, so a small discrepancy at the alternator end isn't a problem.

The rev-counter is going to a new position, alongside the exhaust temperature gauge, it can use the same belt, albeit a little shorter, and doesn't interfere with anything around it. That needs a couple of M10 thread inserts fitting, which I'll do tomorrow. One little issue that we had was that the bevel drive gears were too deeply in mesh, and were very noisy. Dan had a quick look at them, but in the end we packed the top housing up with a bit of cardboard and ran it like that for the whole Nuenen weekend.

All the belts are now on the back of the engine and out of sight more or less. The cabling from the battery up to the control box and alternator is now slightly easier, but what has been fitted will have to come off and be re-routed,

Just started tipping down with rain outside....

The knife switch and fuse are going to be moved to a new and larger insulated paxolin panel which will be vertically mounted in the water tank frame. The in-line fuses will be replaced by red Spot fuseholders and the pushbutton box will be replaced by a 'nicer' pair of switches.

There's not a lot to do with the engine itself, it's a messy thing to run as there are overflow troughs each side of the engine which need draining out and cleaning after each day's running, although we may be over-oiling the main bearings a bit. The 'new' flywheel seems pretty secure, no sign of any movement of the flywheel or the key.

We currently have a 50mm layshaft end doing nothing on the 'spectator' side of the engine, we will have to think of something to go on there.

I've done the usual and left the Memory Stick behind, I'll post the pictures tomorrow morning.


05/06/2010 Continued

Oh well, had to go back to the workshop anyway, so picked up the Memory Stick while I was there.

First shot is the new longer layshaft alongside the old one. Old one is 50mm bar, new one is 55mm bar turned down to 50mm at each end.

Next shot is of the alternator drive belts in their new positions, twin V-belts inside and Poly-V belt outside. This arrangement keeps this side of the crankshaft unchanged from before, just the layshaft and pulleys have been changed.

Next is a close-up of the two layshaft pulleys on the exhaust side of the engine. The pulleys are not keyed, but do have provision if needed.

Next is a relative position shot of the new arrangement, the Rev-counter has been removed, its new position is alongside the exhaust temperature gauge.

Shot of the start of getting the support bars set up and marked for cutting. The alternator is a bit front-heavy so it is supported by the engine crane.

Bars cut to length, the control cabinet goes on the bars immediately behind the alternator. G-clamp stops the whole lot falling over!

A later shot just before I packed in for the evening.


Rebuild 1 Rebuild 2 Rebuild 3 Rebuild 4 Rebuild 5 Rebuild 6 Rebuild 7 Rebuild 8 Rebuild 9
Rebuild 10 Rebuild 11 Rebuild 12 Rebuild 13 Rebuild 14 Rebuild 15 Rebuild 16 Rebuild 18
Rebuild 19 Rebuild 20 Rebuild 21 MainRuston Menu