Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 14


Picture of the glowplugs and the adaptors that we made. The one in the foreground is the latest, the one behind is the earlier unsuccessful one.

20p for comparison.

The blanking plug that we turned down is about 1.50 from hydraulic hose shops or on ebay. It's OK for experimenting with, but we are having a new housing made out of 1-1/4" AF stainless, so we can undo the bl**dy thing afterwards! You could put holes in the face and use a grinding wheel spanner.

Note that the glow plugs seal at the cone near the end, so technically it isn't the right configuration, and I'll be looking out for a better mechanical solution, but for now it does the job well. The smaller one does in fact seat inside the blanking plug, the longer one doesn't.

Threads vary also, the CH41 Champion plug is 7/16" UNF, the Vectra one is M10 X 1.0. I have an M10 X 1.0 tap set if you want to borrow them.

Subsequently, we lost the top of the longer plug, probably as it wasn't supported sufficiently.

Loads of small picky jobs today, managed to get a decent bit done, while sorting out factory things as well.

The crank cover was going to replaced by something more open, as I wanted people to be able to see the crankshaft etc when it was running, and I thought that the cover would be all-enveloping, but when I dug it out of the workshop at home, it already had one side cut away on the oil ring side, so was happy to keep on using it.

Had to knock a largish dent out of the top and clean up some rust around the seams, but generally it was fine and went into place temporarily while we await the split pins for the big-end bolts.

Pulled all of the engine holding-down bolts and drilled them for split pins as well, they all have castellated nuts on at each end, and M20 stainless threaded rod is as tough as hell to drill, but got through six holes with the same drill.

Collecting the pins tomorrow on the way down to Watford for a sub-station site visit.

Put thread sealer on the last of the water connections, forgot this one when we fitted the last of the hoses, nothing else to do on the cooling side, may paint around the blind rivets holding the side brackets in place to stop corrosion.

Fitted the second layshaft bearing block spacer, then found that I didn't have long enough bolts to reach, so will have to go over to Wellingborough tomorrow morning before we go to Watford.

Had a go at getting the blue and black on the flywheel rim sorted out on the paint boundaries, but although I used masking tape, it didn't give me a neat job so I'll probably get a decent small brush and do it again.

Made up a pair of pushrods for Philip's Sendling engine, he has a cup missing out of one of the rockers, so have to make that as well tomorrow. Surprising that an engine would run with a huge tappet gap, but it did!

We 'lost' some of the drawbar coupling bolts on the day of the first engine run, and could not work out where they had gone to. Finally found that they had crept into a small crevice in the trolley chassis, and lay there jammed head to toe and almost locked in place. Got them out by using a magnet on a stick to split them apart, then eased them out one at a time. Amazed that they could get into the gap as it was almost exactly the same size as the A/F on the bolt head and nut.

As I said, nothing too large but a useful number of things to tick off the list.

Next big job is to get the pulley back off the alternator and strip it down again to change the starter field winding connection, once that is done we can have a trial run and see what everything does in real time.



Haven't done anything yet today, have been out and about meeting up with one of our customers at a sub-station in Watford, which has a rail station next door which is on an unused line, most strange.

Here are the two pictures I took last night of the crank guard:

I also picked up some hardware from our nut and bolts suppliers and called round to Vince who had repaired the broken priming lever for the Ruston:

Heavy showers at present, hope to get out later this afternoon to get some more done.


12/05/2010 Continued

Weather stayed dry but cool, got cracking on a few more jobs:

Split pins fitted to the big-end bolts and to the engine holding down nuts, the crank cover was then finally bolted on, the touch-in paintwork having dried off sufficient to handle.

RTV sealer was applied around the rivets inside the cooling tank, more a 'just in case' than anything, but worth doing while it is all dry.

The Poly-V drive belt and pulley were finally lined up with a straight-edge and the bearing block bolted down. Feels a touch tight, but we can adjust it by shimming up the bearing block if needed.

Once that end was done, we were able to finish off the other end where the two V-belts run, and set the belt tensioners up.

Fitted the repaired priming lever after a quick spray with black aerosol, works fine.

As we are almost finished now, we decided to give it a run with the belts on and the alternator driven, to see if any obvious problems show up.

The glow-plug adaptor has been given a couple of holes in the outer face so I can wind it in with a pair of pointed nose pliers, followed by the glow plug itself.

I tried cranking it over, now with all flywheels, the drive wheel, the layshaft and the alternator in circuit. Not too bad but definitely takes a big heave to get it rolling! If we couldn't resolve the alternator/starter problems before next week, we'd be OK with hand starting, that is a big relief!

Rita did the honours with the glow plug lead onto the battery, and away it went.

Starting with the glow-plug is so much more certain, and even on half compression it was picking up speed, whereas before it would die if you didn't kick the roller over to full compression.

The engine picks up speed slightly slower than before, but the exhaust beats are more drawn-out and it sounds nicer.

With 60psi in the tyres, we are still bouncing

Did a couple of runs to see if the belts would be a problem, but all seems well, no hot bearings and no nasty noises, the alternator sounds fine.

The bottom tensioner pulley seems to draw the belts to the outer edge, and just as well we have the flanges, as they would be off. The top one runs with the belts central, but that is the one that only does much when the alternator is in start mode.

Finished about 8pm, wrapped it all up for the night and toodled off home. We are going to fill the water up tomorrow and see what that does when it is all bouncing about.



We are concentrating on getting the electrics done now, and first job was a temporary hook-up of the reversed starting field so that the alternator motored the right way on powering up.

Being a series-field motor, the field current is heaviest at the instant of starting, reducing as the motor gathers speed.

Having done that, we tried it on 12V to see if it would go, and it turned the engine over with the exhaust valve rocker held down (we don't have a decompressor) and it picked up and turned over quite well, but didn't get up enough speed to throw the engine over compression more than once before it stopped.

Next was 24V, and this time it would speed up a lot quicker, and would thump over compression quite easily. Lastly we went for a start, and it picked up speed, we dropped the exhaust lever and away it went, no glow plug required at all.

Now we have proven that part, we have to get the control box and batteries wired up and get the 240V and battery charging circuits running. Because the ground of the frame is both the start and the AC neutral combined, we are hoping that we don't have any polarity issues with the starter field reversed.

We can of course take the brushes or slipring connections to the frame away onto an insulated return, but that is for later.

In the final stages now, have got the control box onto the alternator after configuring the wiring of the series starting field to be reversed. Also have laid all the heavy battery cabling (35mm welding cable) from one end to the other, just got to terminate that at the battery end, the other end is connected to the control box.

The main field and auxiliary field wiring is next, all the bits are in the box, cleaned up and waiting, could be running and generating this time tomorrow night!

Very pleased with the starting earlier, that was on a couple of 40AH sealed batteries, with me holding the wires onto the terminals! the actual ones we have on the engine are 105AH and capable of a lot more starting current.

On the smaller batteries it would pull over full compression once the flywheels were motoring, takes about 5-6 seconds to get up to a reasonable speed, 10 seconds is easily enough to start.



Very busy day, worked through the wiring for the alternator most of the day, got it all finished, then sorted out a switch box for the glow plug and starter solenoid. We couldn't really get a decent set of fuses parked up anywhere, not without redoing a lot of our wiring and parts around the battery area.

They have to be fused separately as the main battery fuse is 350A rating, and the smaller 4mm cabling won't take that without bursting into flames. We finished up with a couple of accessory in-line fuses and holders, with 30A rating, other sizes available. One feed for the glow-plug is 12V and the other is 24V for the starter solenoid.

All worked OK, we had an initial problem with the starter solenoid, a piece of something was across one of the contacts so nothing happened, but after a strip-down it whirred into life OK.

It will now start after two turns if the crankshaft is backed to just after compression, giving the motor time to pick up speed before it hits compression. Couldn't get anything out of the alternator yet, but the engine side is now start on demand, tomorrow we will put water in and give it an extended run.

Should also have the timbers back from being cut as well. Martin Perman popped in while we were still wiring, but he will be back tomorrow and we can run it for him then.



Lots of highs and lows today, mostly good but one bad.

Carried on with the electrical side of things, played around with settings on the alternator but couldn't get anything out, even after reversing the main field, so back to the drawing board for that one.

Did check out all the variable resistors, and the rectifier and current shunt, but as they don't do anything until a load is applied, their effect is minimal at present.

Martin Perman popped in with his mate, Peter, and Martin saw for himself the beast starting up on the button.

Later in the day we filled the water up and ran it up on the wood blocks, which improved things to the point where we diecided to leave it running and get it warmed up.

All was OK until we heard a heavy knocking, almost like a big-end, but as we shut it down it was obviously not that, it was in fact the balance weight bolts hitting the chassis members as the flywheel moved into the engine.

That was a bit of a bummer to say the least, as I wasn't expecting too much trouble from that area.

Had problems with the rev-counter pulley, the key was stuck onto the pulley and we had a hell of a job getting it off. I hadn't put a tapped hole in the key as I didn't think it would need it, but will certainly do so now!

Once it was all away, we made up a couple of collars to space the flywheel back to where it should be, and then cleaned up the flywheel, shaft and key and Loctited the lot together, plus we drilled a hole through the flywheel hub and put an M10 Hex setscrew and locknut down into the key, which has a drilled recess to locate the end of the bolt, which we turned down so the threads wouldn't get damaged and jam the bolt.

Left it at that for the evening, going to give it 24 hours to cure, although as we knocked the key in it was tightening up all the time and we had to get it home before it went solid.

The wood blocks made a big difference, although the water is still splashing everywhere. Took a couple of videos, they should be available on Youtube by now:

First one is a shot as the engine is started on the motor: Motor Startup 1

Next is Rita starting it up while I shoot the sequence: Motor Startup 2

Last is the engine running while up on the blocks: Motor Startup 3

Following pictures are from yesterday:

Back onto the flywheel etc in the morning, got to drill and tap the rev-counter pulley key before assembling it all back together again.



Yesterday and today have been spent getting the 8PB sorted out, the trailer serviced and the winch support reinforced.

The 8PB was a pumping set engine, but had no pump but a loooong original trolley, so we shortened that by about 19" and reused the front axle and support, so now it looks like a portable engine.

We have factory drawings for the 8PB stand-alone engine and it is very close to that layout. Haven't had chance to run it yet, will take some petrol with us to Nuenen and play there

Trailer had all the bearings checked and greased and brakes adjusted. We've never changed the bearings yet, and they are looking fine, but always give them a check-over before a long journey with a heavy load.

The winch support was found to be wanting year before last with the Caterpillar and dyno, so we have made up a couple of angle-iron supports and hung the whole thing out over the drawbar to give more room on the trailer deck.

The Discovery is in the bodyshop having its front repaired, SWMBO had a wee prang a couple of weeks ago, hope to get it back Wednesday so we can change oil and filters.

Tomorrow we hope to load the Ruston onto the trailer and get it down to the weighbridge to see what it tows like and to find out just how much it weighs.



We sent the last of the unpainted bits off to the powder coaters yesterday, hope to have them back by lunchtime today. Rob is off today for our granddaughter's birthday, but he is going to collect the bits at lunchtime and bring them up to us, along with Maia, so we can see here before we go away to Nuenen.

Going outside in a minute to refit the drive wheel and rev-counter pulley, then will load the Ruston onto the trailer and get it weighed.


18/05/2010 Continued

Powder-coated parts turned up as promised, thanks to our powder coaters for a quick turn-round and a very nice job!

The rev-counter support had to have new spacers made, as the drive pulley had to move along with the flywheel on that side, so a couple of dural spacers were knocked up on the lathe and the support fixed in place behind the alternator.

The 1" Balata belting hasn't arrived yet, so that will be a last-minute job to do, or even do it over in Nuenen.

Philip had bought a litre of Matt Olive Drab paint for his Sankey ex-Army trailer, so I did a little bit of retouching on the chassis or the trolley, got to do the back bumper tomorrow.

Everything went back together OK, made up a small shim for the Poly-V belt layshaft, just to take a bit of the tightness out of the belt. I don't want to overload the Ruston main bearings, huge though they are!

The water tank seems to be 'walking' across the rubber mat we gave it to sit on, so that might need something to hold it in place, maybe some blocks of ali or Tufnol bolted to the top of the tank support.

Once we had Philip's Sankey trailer out of the way (he is almost finished hacking it about) we got the trailer up to the loading bay and fitted the two ali channel ramps. We've recycled the year before last's ramps, and when turned upside down and the connecting point moved slightly, they worked fine. Surprising how strong that extrusion really is, it hardly moved with Mike's Pool on there or the Caterpillar 1Y73, and the Ruston hardly made it grunt either, even over a 6ft gap.

Once on the trailer, we had a clear-up and Philip popped over to B&Q for some sheet timber to put on the floor of the Sankey.

We left about 18.30 after sheeting up the engines.

The balance of the engine on the trailer was good, I can pick the towbar up with one hand, so probably a little light, but still not far off the optimum. We have extra weight in the form of 12 wood blocks, but we will lay them on the trailer under the trolley, they'll not move far.


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