Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 13

08/05/2010 Continued

Simplest thing to do is to cast some weight to suit the flywheel rim curvature, and make them thick enough to be structurally sound so they can be bolted on. First picture is the flat sheet of lead formed over the rim, second is the folded-up piece of the same weight.

Worked well enough, there's also a shot of the balancing shaft in there for completeness.


08/05/2010 Continued

Still here! Work harder on my bl**dy engine than I do for the company! Cleaned up the cast weights, marked out & drilled them, and got the flywheels drilled and tapped M6 to take the bolts to hold the weights in place.

The bolts will be Loctited once in position and the painting has been done. Pictures are slightly blurred, sorry about that.

I started to get the rest of the flywheels painted, so they will be dry enough to handle tomorrow, hopefully I can get them both up on the engine and the rims rubbed down and a coat of blue applied.



Took a couple of close-up shots of the weights last night, but forgot to post them:

Another productive day, got both flywheels back on the engine and the rims painted (at last!) only a quick first coat, there's more to go on the sides to clean it all up once we have more blue on the rims.

The key for the 'new' flywheel is going to need some thought. The flywheel appears to be slightly oversize in the bore, it tends to drop a thou or so when the keyways coincide with each other, so we have to allow for that when we fit the parallel key. We also will probably have to fit a bolt through the hub to clamp the keyway and to pull the flywheel hub against the crankshaft, otherwise it's going to work loose.

The plates for raising the layshaft blocks was in fact in the postbox on Saturday, I had assumed a larger packet that would be brought in by the postie. Drilled them both and files the holes out to allow for adjustment, then tried a quick fit, looks like we are in with a shout.

Last job of the day was to make up a chain and hook for the trolley towbar, it's dammed heavy and can't be left laid on the ground, it is too dangerous. I had a bit of small galvanised chain, fashioned a hook out of a long M6 stainless bolt, and screwed an eye bolt to the cooling tank frame, job done.



Busy day again, but good progress today with engine things. First job was another coat of blue on the flywheel rims, this tin of Lechler 2K paint has an excellent, smooth finish, really nice.

The major mechanical job that is left to do is the flywheel key for the 'new' flywheel and also for the drive wheel, which came with the electric dyno and without a key.

The 2 keys that Mark McGrath made for us were long enough to cut into two, one for the flywheel and one for the drive wheel. They were both set up in the lathe and the ends faced square, the one end was tapped M8 for a slide hammer, to enable them to be pulled out, hopefully!

Once they were done, the new flywheel was fitted with its key, fair bit of filing to get it tight enough to hold, but not too tight so it wouldn't fit.

I used a 3/4" steel bar as a drift to knock it in with a 2lb hammer, it was nicely tight all the way, so hopefully won't work loose.

The rev-counter pulley has its own plain key, but being sandwiched between other parts, it doesn't need to be retained. Note the engine number on the pulley, the key is also stamped with the full number!

Then finally the drive wheel was lifted into place and its key fitted.

That left us with the possibility of a run, so the longer glow plug (Vectra Diesel) was fitted into a temporary housing, Rita held the wires onto a battery and I swung the handle. Immediate start, no problems at all, better than the glowing starters and no paper debris in the exhaust!

The engine was stone cold, and it has been a chilly old day, so we were well pleased at how quickly it started on the glow plug, which is about 3" closer to the piston than the first one, and also has a quick-start element built-in.

The engine was still 'bouncy-bouncy', and this time we were prepared, with a couple of axle stands and a white board marker pen, we held the pen against the flywheel so that it just contacted at the lowest point of depression of the suspension.

We wiped the marks off with WD-40, but put a permanent mark on the new paint to show where it was.

The picture below just shows the mark on the flywheel nearest the camera, and it is at the very top. The piston is just off TDC with the flyweights on the crankshaft at the back.

Just got to work out now how much weight we need to add to the flywheels to take that bounce out as much as possible. Just a note, it gets worse as it slows down!

Put some paint onto the Start-O-Matic flywheel pulley as well, same colour scheme as the Ruston flywheels.


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