Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 13

30/04/2010

Actually had the water pipes turn up at last!! 19th April we paid for three 45 degree bends and only received one. Taken this long to get replacements sent.

Also, the drive belt from the USA turned up, so we had something to play with while we waited for Dan Howden to come over and collect the stuff for IF.

Hoses were a 10-minute job to fit, looks neat enough and the stainless pipe and clips do look nice against the Ruston green paint.

The Poly-V drive belt range of sizes is very limited, and we went for a calculated length which is almost exactly the right size, but will need to be set up properly with regards tension etc.

As it is so close to what is needed, we can probably use shims under the bearing blocks to adjust the tension, and do away with the need for the tensioning roller. As it is, the bearing blocks will have to be raised by about an inch.

A huge black cloud started to stretch across Rushden as I was outside taking pictures, so I hastily covered up and beat a retreat inside while it passed. Rushden Cavalcade this weekend, fields were pretty full when we went past during the week on the way to Luton, ground is dry, just a bit of heavy rain around, mainly showers which might soften it up a bit. Up at the field the ground is well dry and cracks up to 1" wide in the ground, so a bit of rain wouldn't hurt.

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05/05/2010

Didn't have a lot of time over the Bank Holiday, we had 'end of the month' stuff to sort out and get ready for shipping on Tuesday, but today is a quiet day for the factory, so having already collected the semi-gloss Black paint on Monday I got the 'new' flywheel out and started to get it painted.

Quite a warm day today, especially compared with the weekend!

The Poly-V groove belt and pulleys were next, I unbolted the bearing block and fitted the belt, to see how much packing the block would need to allow the belt to fit, and it was about 8mm. What we will probably do is to buy some 60mm X 10mm Ali bar, and make the spacers out of that, and with the existing slotted holes in the trolley frame, we should have enough adjustment range.

Off to Luton this afternoon, but the new keys and shaft for balancing the flywheels should be here tomorrow, so a very busy few days are in store.

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05/05/2010 Continued

Stayed on after the end of the day and got started on the tensioner roller flanges. These are to stop the twin V-belts running off the sides of the roller, which they tend to do with such a long run between the pulleys.

Basically, the flanges were turned up out of some Dural bar that we had a sack of blanks cut from, it was faced, bored out to 54mm, then the OD was turned down to leave a thick flange at one end.

Two were made tonight, then they were pressed onto the rollers which had already been turned down a bit to take the flanges. I'll put some Loctite on tomorrow to hold them in place.

Got a second coat of paint on one side of the 'new' flywheel before departing for home.

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06/05/2010

We got a few jobs out of the way today, finished the second set of belt guides for the alternator, got the 8mm spacers under the front of the frame to even it up (there's a step in the top of the trolley frame) got 2nd coat on the 'new' flywheel, and started to get the balancing jig sorted out.

To statically balance the flywheels, we need to run them on a shaft on steel edges that are truly horizontal. To do this with 3cwt of flywheel that is 34" in diameter is a bit of a challenge!

We have two cast frames from a machine of some king, possibly a saw bench, these are about 24" high. Each of those will be bolted across a pair of 4" heavy steel channel sections, each end of which will have a machine tool adjustable foot.

On top, for the flywheel shaft to run on, will be either a piece of 3/4 square steel, or a smaller piece of channel. In either event, we have a precision spirit level that we can set it all up on, so that the flywheel will rotate freely on its shaft until the heaviest portion is at the bottom.

The RH flywheels were never balanced at the factory, so I'm expecting a serious amount of balance weight to be added to both.

The format of the weight is undecided, for something small we can just drill and tap the flywheel rim and bolt something on, but for serious weight/mass we will probably have to get some bright flat bar bent on edge to the radius of the inner rim and bolt it there.

Construction of the jig will commence tomorrow in earnest, the channels are already cut and waiting at the factory, I have to hump the frames out of the engine tent and get them into the Disco.

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07/05/2010

Loosely assembled the parts for the balancing jig, the frames are a hernia-inducing weight!

Will take the channels down to the workshop lunch-time to get the holes drilled, and will also cut some small channel to go on top for the flywheel shaft to run on. The drill at the workshop wouldn't be able to handle 20mm in steel, while the Elliott 3A will go up to 1-1/4" in steel. Might have some results tonight if all goes well.

The jig will take up to about a 5ft diameter flywheel, and being dismantleable it can be moved around 'fairly' easily.

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07/05/2010 Continued

Got the frame set up roughly level, had lunch and then the shaft and new parallel keys arrived, so a lot of humping and grunting to get the shaft and flywheel lifted onto the jig, and it works as expected.

We tried one of the new keys as a balance weight, strapped to one of the spokes, but it still needs more weight, so we will get the levelling done and then do a full test to see what we can do.

The position of the weight is important, out on the rim we need less mass than when it is further towards the centre.

The shaft and new keys are a superb job by Mark McGrath in Edinburgh, many thanks to him!

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07/05/2010 Continued

Stayed until nearly 8pm, then came back home, 12 hours is long enough.

After the initial tests, we fixed the small channels to the jig and levelled them up on the rough top casting by using transformer laminations as shims.

On the first tests, we marked the original flywheel up for the lightest point. On the new test it came to rest in exactly the same position.

The lightest point is about 90 degrees back from the keyway, which in all the pictures above is resting at about 3 O'clock and just out of sight.

Because of the bad surface, we had to put the channels close to the edge of the side castings, which meant that we had to run on the 2-5/8" diameter of the shaft, not the 2", but it made no difference.

When we get a minute, we will replace the channel with box section and make the mountings adjustable. If the repeat tests are conclusive in the morning, then we will go for a final fit of both flywheels, and give it a run to see how much better or worse it is.

We have to drill & tap the new rectangular key for the 'new' flywheel before it goes it, as there is no head on it to pull it out with, the rev-counter pulley is next door to it with its own short little key, then the main Poly-V drive wheel outboard of that.

The ali blocks for the layshaft bearings haven't shown up yet, but plenty to keep us busy over the weekend.

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08/05/2010

Brought some sheet lead in this morning, trying different formats for the balance weights. 375g is the optimum weight for the original flywheel, based on a weight out on the rim in a folded format. If the weight is spread out and therefore lower-profile, then it has to be 400g as per our first test.

In terms of 2mm lead sheet, that is a piece 6" X 4.75" approximately, quite a lump! I'm just loading the other flywheel now to see what results we get on that one. Drizzly this morning, but should brighten up later.

Looking at materials that we have available, I can cast the sheet lead into a shape that I can bolt to the flywheel, or I can use something else instead. We have (for example) 10mm X 25mm Copper busbar, which goes 8.930g per cu cm, against Lead at 11.340g per cu cm.

The advantage with the Copper is that it is in a suitable form to put bolts through, and is also bendable to suit the radius of the flywheel rim, although bending it sideways-on won't be easy. I'll need 16.8 cm of copper bar for 375g weight, plus an allowance for the bolts and the amount we drill out to put the threads into the flywheel.

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