Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 10


Haven't had time to do much during the last few days due to going up to Edinburgh, but puzzled out a way to get the engine temp gauge mounted while trying to get to sleep in a strange bed!

Still waiting for the 45 degree bends that we bought nearly 2 weeks ago, but have now got some 2" BSP nipples and an extra bend for the exhaust.

The Pitcher Tee-piece is unusual as it is not equal sizes, and was off the engine originally where it was used as the drain tap mounting. The temperature gauge is 3/4" BSP while all else is 1" BSP. Just the job!

There is a short length of 1" BSP parallel thread tube inside the engine flange to provide a male thread mounting.


14/04/2010 Continued

A bit weary today after all the running up to Scotland and back, but went back up to the factory after dinner and finished the fuel tank off.

The filler cap was missing when we bought it, so we turned up an offcut of Nylon bar, drilled a breather through the centre (2.5mm) then chamfered the corners and heat-shrunk a white PVC sleeve over it, then made up a label on our labelling machine "Diesel Only".

The fuel pipe union is new and replaces the previous female threaded receptacle, the brass bit is less than 2 plus VAT from RS Components, but you have to buy them in 2's. It has not got any sealant on the threads yet.

Last thing was a trial run with a Ruston & Hornsby transfer.

Went OK, we put some vinyl tape with felt pen markings to show where it went, and then put it on with no real hassles. Having the tape in a box made centreing it quite easy, and gently dabbing with tissue and wiping across to get the excess water out from underneath worked well. One thing to watch is that the feathered edges will try and roll underneath the transfer if you move them across a dry place.

I've got a selection of transfers that I have bought from Ray Hooley to take to Nuenen, and have the 4" roundel and the 6" one. Also have the Hornsby Red transfer and the Ruston script transfer.

The smaller one worked well on the rounded side of the tank, I think that the larger one would be a bit too much. The tank mountings were a bit hacked about as you can see, but once the feet are on, it doesn't show!



More progress today, although in fits and starts as we are getting busy as we get into the second half of the month at the factory.

Did a trial fit of the exhaust thermometer to see if it was easily visible, and it doesn't look too bad, also got the fuel tank bolted down and laid a piece of flexible fuel hose across to the pump to see how it would lay. Copper would be nicer, but there's no means of supporting it across the gap.

Closer view of the exhaust thermometer. It's a fixed length tube so cannot change anything, it is mounted into the exhaust system just below the outlet on the head.

View of the two tanks from the drawbar end, the transfer looks OK in daylight, this was a flash picture.

Got the alternator mountings back from being painted, whipped them on and did a quick trial fit of the drive belts, had they been too short or too long then we'd have had to change them.

Next shot shows the belts in place, there are a pair of guide rollers to be fitted, one just to the rear of the engine on the top run and one to the rear of the layshaft pulley on the bottom run.

Last shot shows the adjustment left on the alternator mountings, there's also a bit on the layshaft plummer blocks if needed.

We had to order the 10-groove Poly-V drive belt from the USA as there were no stockists over here that would look at getting it for us. $152 with shipping to our friends in Phoenix.

Might have enough done to go for a start on the weekend.



After some discussion on the Forum, the fuel cap was decided to be too 'garish', so other options were tried.

Tried the black Polyolefin heatshrink today, but it is too thick and too large a diameter to lay down and look anything. I'll try and source a bit of black from our battery pack assemblers. We should have some somewhere as we used to do that ourselves, but I couldn't lay my hands on it.

Found that the injection pump priming lever had its tip broken off at some time recently, and being Sod's Law, the broken bit was down inside the cambox. We didn't have a small enough magnet to get inside the filler or drain plugs, and the prospect of stripping the whole camshaft off the engine wasn't a prospect that I fancied!

After looking at the assembly, we reckoned that if we shifted the governor flyweights along a bit, then we could remove the side cover on the cambox and see what room we had for the magnet.

Knocked the taper pin out, after one attempt ended up with me hitting my thumb:shocked: the flyweight hub moved along nicely and the cover was free enough to allow our magnet inside to get the broken piece out. That is going to be brazed up on Monday.

The start of the electrics commenced today, we have a small (12" X 5") Paxolin (SRBP) panel in front of the batteries, carrying a 350A safety fuse and a knife switch. The fuse is purely to protect against a short-circuit (the Lister S-O-M sets had such a fuse) and the switch is to isolate the batteries while we are travelling.

We went back tonight after dinner and rubbed down the poly-groove drive wheel and put a second coat on, will do the other one tomorrow. The hub is thicker than the wheel rim, so quite conveniently is will lay on the hub sides while we paint it.

Tim emailed from Phoenix, the new polygroove belt arrived yesterday, he will forward it on to us today.



Up early to watch the Chinese F1 qualifying, then up to the factory early to get on with the Ruston. Philip joined me later to do the rear main seal on his Landy. he is still there now, been up there nearly 12 hours.

I got another coat on the Poly-V drive wheel after turning it over, that's two coats per side and should be sufficient. Got it out in the sunshine when it warmed up later in the day, but I needed a coat on first thing.

Main job today was to resolve the exhaust situation and get a working system in place. The main problem is getting the exhaust out of the head, through 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees and finally capping it all with the silencer. Due to the proximity of other hardware, you cannot turn a 90 degree bend around in the space available.

I turned up some flanges yesterday, so that I could make a bolted connection, but after a bit of thought I reckoned that I could 'just' get a 90 degree bend in place if I lifted the engine up by 15-20mm, which is what I did. One short nipple from the head port, into a 90 degree female bend, then a swept 90 degree bend followed by a 12" vertical pipe with the silencer on top. Once screwed in, the 90 degree bend just cleared the frame by about 1/32". so I pulled it out and took 1/8" off the rough casting with a file and refitted it. The engine was let down again once it was all in place.

The exhaust rocker lever was also taken off so the short 90 degree bend could rotate without hitting the lever.

We couldn't get it quite tight enough on the threads for the swept bend, so looked for a means to anchor the vertical pipe to the framing, and Martin Perman came to the rescue with a pipe support which we were able to modify to do the job. We are going to fit a larger diameter stay spacer tomorrow, but for now it is fine. There is a M8 bolt going into the support from the framing.

The silencer is a genuine Ruston unit, probably off one of the air-cooled diesel engines, but it fits the bill nicely. All the threaded pipes are 2" BSP or 2-3/8" diameter OD.

The engine exhaust temperature gauge was a bit of a problem, but we managed to get it fitted OK, albeit further from the exhaust port than we would have liked.

We also had to turn the head around so that in its new position it could be seen clearly.

Other things that we sorted out were the fuel feed and leak-off unions. We have hooked it up with fabric-covered flexible piping for now, will possibly look at copper when we see how much vibration we have when running.

Last two shots are of the drive wheel out in the sun and another view of the engine. The drive wheel is normally on the other side of the engine, the same side as the new flywheel.

If we had the flywheel keys, we could probably get it running now, but they are up in Edinburgh at present.


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