Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 8


Had another good day today, but much cooler than yesterday, when we were outside in T-shirts! Philip was carrying on with his new quarter-chassis replacement on his Landy, and as I was literally feet away, I got roped in occasionally to assist. First job was to get the battery tray secured to the framework, and cut some rubber for the two batteries to sit on. There isn't a huge amount of spare room in the tray, but it does stop them sliding around. The batteries are 12V 105AH sealed lead-acid types. These are the same capacity as the originals used on the Lister Start-O-Matics. The batteries are run in series at 24V, we have to run 50sq mm welding cables back to the alternator/starter.

Next job was to make up some reducing bushes for the engine mountings. The standard bolts are 1" but we are using M20 stainless fasteners, so three reducers were turned up to keep the bolts central and to provide a degree of cushioning for the main block casting.

Next job was to find something to protect the powder coat under the water tank, and also where the tie-down rods go through the plinth top. A bit of 1/8" Insertion rubber served to sit the water tank on, and we had some stepped nylon bushes that were perfect for the holes for the tie-down rods.

Although we hadn't got the engine block bolted down, it was time to get the crankshaft out and fitted into the block. The bearings are all marked up with the side they came from and the orientation in respect of the big end and conrod in the case of the big end shells.

The mains are lubricated by ring oilers, and these are split to allow fitting over the journal, after which the top cap can be fitted. The second picture shows the top bearing before the cap is fitted, the ring oiler can be seen poking out on the left, and just about seen on the right.

The big end is pretty massive by normal engine standards, those bolts on the side of the web are 5/16" Whitworth, the main big-end bolts are fitted 3/4" diameter. The ring oiler is held on by those two bolts, the oil passing into the crankshaft through the central hole. oil is supplied by a mechanical pump.

The timing is by conventional skew gears, and they are marked up just as the smaller engines are. Because they are quite a slow helix, you have to find the marking on the crankshaft gear and then follow the teeth round to the engagement point to see if they are in the right place. The next picture shows the two markings on the sideshaft gear quite clearly.

Philip had been steadily working away at his Landy, I took the following shot just before we got the crankshaft lifted in.



Cooling tank pipes and engine bed. Having more or less fixed the position of the tank and engine relative to each other, we have to connect the two bits together.

The engine has 1" BSP female connections, the top one of which is a home-made one but good enough to use. The lower block connection needs a large steelsons to get the old pipe out.

To get a decent pipe size, we have gone for the largest size that we can get adaptors for, to fit 1" BSP. We had a look around in this country and could only find 1" BSP to 28mm compression fittings, but then found that in the USA of all places there was a 28mm stem coupling to 1" BSP in Brass.

We also found a UK dealer that stocked them, so ordered three, one for a spare, just in case.

That's the engine end, next was the tank.

Because of the curvature of the tank sides, a small pipe coupling would not be a problem, but larger diameter couplings on a relatively small diameter tank will distort the tank body, so we sketched out an elliptical plate that had a stub of stainless pipe welded into it, and they are being knocked up tomorrow as a joint effort between a couple of our suppliers. Two of each, one inside with no stub and one outside, with sealer inside.

So, we have the stubs at each end, a couple of offcuts of 28mm stainless pipe did the connecting, and we bought pre-formed hoses from an ebay supplier, along with stainless hose clips.

We like stainless fittings, they last almost forever, don't cost much more than Zinc plated (and can actually be cheaper)

The main engine bed/cushion is being made out of 20mm hardwood, so that any differences between the engine bottom face and the main frame will be absorbed by the wood. It isn't cheap, but do it once and you won't need to do it ever again. The engine has three bolts to hold it down, we have gone for M20 studding with castellated nuts and split pins, all in stainless again.

With four days almost free this coming Easter weekend, we hope to get a lot of the sub-assemblies up and finished, particularly the alternator. The weather doesn't look too good though!



Got a few more bits and pieces organised during this week.

The hardwood frame for the engine to sit on was made up for me very quickly by our pattern-making guy, who is now retired but still does work from home.

It is 20mm thick and dimensioned to sit under the engine block only. It has just had its second coat of varnish when the picture was taken.

The brass adaptors for the water cooling pipes arrived and were very nice indeed, well worth the money.

Silicon hoses in 28mm ID size partially turned up, there are some more to come, but the pre-formed bends save a lot of time and trouble.

The M20 Stainless Steel rod, castellated nuts and large washers also arrived, they were cut up and machined to length, ready for bolting the engine down.


02/04/2010 Continued

Forgot the water tank stubs!

They are being fitted this morning. Water tank is finished as far as connections and mounting are concerned, have moved on to the fuel tank now.

The fuel tank has about four coats of thick paint which defied my efforts at rubbing down to a decent finish, so out comes the Nitromors!


02/04/2010 Continued

It took about 3 hours to completely strip and rub down the fuel tank. The original stencilled lettering of the part number was on one of the coats of paint, and the base undercoat was very good, but it all had to come off.

Once stripped, the tank was found to be in pretty good shape, with a few rust patches where the paint had been damaged in the past, but nothing serious. The mountings had been modified at some time in its life.

Once cleaned up, I used some acid etch primer to give it a good coating, but it is dodgy stuff to use, and I had to be careful about ventilation while spraying it!

The hardwood frame has had its third coating of varnish and is drying off overnight before being turned over so the underneath can be done as well.

End of operations for the day!


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