Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 4


Took one of the shorter lengths of box section home at 5pm, had tea then set up the Rapidor in the workshop and cut up the four crossmembers and one piece of channel, ready for welding next week.

We already have axle support crossmembers cut up on the shelf, we bought a load of steel a few years back, had five or six trolley chassis welded up and stuck the rest either on the shelf or cut up ready for another project.

I'll take some more pictures in the morning, after I have drilled the crossmembers and axle supports on the Progress 3A pillar drill, that's a right beast of a machine but ideal for drilling 30-40mm holes in steel.



More metalwork in the workshop this morning, I got the two main support crossmembers drilled and the pivot bush in place (before welding)

The rear engine support was also drilled:

Those hole cutters from Bosch are not cheap, but they are very good and cut an accurate hole. The pivot bush was CNC turned to 40mm +- a gnat's cock, but the hole was almost exactly right for it and only needed a bit of deburring.

Off to the factory now and try a bit of assembly on the floor to see what it looks like.

The drill chuck at the back of the pillar drill table is a regular 1/2" size, the chuck in the drill today is a 3/4" item. The last shot has a 3/4" drill with 3MT shank so the chuck is out and laying to the left of the small chuck, almost out of the picture.


11/04/2009 Continued

Back home after an afternoon of trial and error fitting up to see how this is going to work together as a unit.

The fuel tank will have to go up over the engine, the injection pump needs a decent head of diesel and the inlet point is already nearly 400mm above the mounting base, so the tank will be 650mm above at its feet. The outlet is in a small drop cap type of water trap.

The trial mock-up of the water tank retainers went better than expected, we had some 1/4" 303 stainless rod, so we cut some short pieces and tried a butt-weld with some hi-chrome rod in the stick welder. They came out as per the pictures. Might try and improve on the welding, but it works fine.

We also had a look at the tachometer, which had sustained a knock on the lubricator point on the front, bending the mounting plate which was quite thin brass.

After stripping it down and straightening the plate, we were able to clean it up and resolder the nut on the back of the plate into which the lubricator was screwed. Picture below.

The last job was to recheck our sizing calculation for the trolley main frame, and have reduced the overall length from 101.5" (2578mm) down to 90" (2286mm) so we have brought them back home to cut down after tea.



Spent most of the morning laying out the shortened trolley members, and checking/drawing things like the bracket for the rev-counter and the fuel tank.

The rev-counter has a very nice cast iron column, which is normally bolted to the floor, but as we are on a trolley, it has to go without the column and sit on a bracket down towards the back somewhere, in between the flywheels and the alternator.

The fuel tank has to go over the engine as already explained, that or we fit a fuel pump, not sure which way to jump. A fuel pump would be no big hassle, but the injection pump is not designed for a continuous high pressure feed, just gravity feed, so I'll need to think in terms of an older SU pump perhaps.

Picture shows the loosely assembled parts in their final positions.



Been busy with other things this week, but after some testing at the factory today, I got the SOM alternator out and had a look at what was needed to get it finished.

First job was to get the through-bolts installed and the ends bolted up. That was fairly easy once I had the deflector plate inside the drive end cover positioned right. There are 4 cut-outs in this thin metal shield and they have to be right or the bolts cannot pass through. The two end plates also have to be lined up fairly accurately.

Once that was done, I had a look at the brushgear and connections.

The brush carriers were off, one was loose when we dismantled the unit, the other was taken off to clean the carbon and oil out. The remaining connections needed a bit of TLC as the outer covering had become ratty and bare wire was showing.

Once that had been done and new tabs soldered on, it all went together rather quickly, the only question mark was the way the two AC brushes were connected up, but eventually I decided that it didn't matter which was earthed and which was live.

The armature spun nicely, no nasty noises, the commutator end bearing was tightened up with some new screws as the old ones had been damaged by the unit being upended at some time.

Finally, the acid test!

Got a 12V battery and connected it to the two heavy wires, and off it went, smooth as silk. I put a meter across the AC brushes and found that it was generating voltage as well, so a happy bunny was I !.

Pictures below.



Spent an hour or so making up the exhaust pipe adaptor for the temperature gauge that shows exhaust gas temp.

Got a 2" BSP coupling at Enstone for a quid, held it in the 4-jaw chuck on two jaws and steadied on the other 2. Drilled it out to 18mm, then bored it out to 24mm.

Then used a tap to clean through the threads where the drill and boring bar had left burrs on the threads.

Got the stub welded in, not fully welded in case we have to make any last-minute adjustments.

The finished adaptor with the gauge in place.

All these pictures are taken with a 1.2mp Sony Mavica FD100 camera. You don't need 8mp or more to take a decent shot.

Spent the next hour rubbing down the SOM alternator, ready for some paint tomorrow.



Various odds and sods being done over the weekend, including the repaint of the alternator, which is now almost finished on the first coat.

The control box is the next item to be stripped and sorted out. The original box is pretty rusty, so we have got a black steel electrical box to replace it. The original inverter case we were going to use would need repainting.

Stripped out the old box, displacing a few spiders again, but most bits came out fairly well, mostly I used a sharp chisel on the back face of the box and sheared off the nuts and threads. There was no way I could have spent all evening trying to undo rusty 2BA threads!

Once apart, I was able to clean up the bits and pieces, which includes the original selenium rectifier, current transformer, starter relay, made by CAV and the two preset resistors for output voltage etc. The terminals block came out OK as well, plus the plastic cable gland from the bottom of the case.

Pictures below, mainly of the bits and pieces inside.

Main rectifier and terminal block.

Main components before removal. Plastic cable grommet bottom right.

Closer view of the internals.

Smaller of the two preset resistors.

Current transformer connections. Tags are stamped with numbers 1 - 5.

Main components out on the bench being cleaned up.

Slightly clearer view of the wiring..


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