Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 3

05/04/2009

Had a bit more time to play this morning, so I decided to get the alternator lead-out wires repaired, and get the unit reassembled as much as possible. The original leads are fabric and rubber covered, and were a bit ratty:

So we cut them off outside the stator and sleeved the stub back inside a bit, then joined a new piece of LSF (Low Smoke & Fume) cable onto the end, sleeved the joint with PVC heatshrink and then put a sleeve of woven high-temp material over the whole thing, The wire didn't like being soldered, but some red rosin flux had the solder taking after a while.

The main starter connection had to be a bolted joint as we used 25mm HO7 flexible cable and the original was only about 10mm.

Once bolted together, a triple layer of polyolefin heat-shrink was applied to the joint and the wiring cable tied back to the bobbins (we had to cut the original string ties to allow the cable to be joined)

Once finished, the stator was plonked onto the floor and we got the armature into it, followed by the end frame.

Turns over very smoothly with the new bearings, the only big hassle was the deflector plate at the front, which is a loose item and held in place by the drive end housing. It has clearance slots for the through-bolts which have to line up with the holes in either end frame.

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09/04/2009

Lots of things happening this week, but no pictures to show, so saved up a bit of stuff until I had a few pictures to go with it.

Got the 100mm box section into the workshop and starting laying out the water and fuel tanks.

Simon Jennings gave me a great little cooling tank, ideal size for what we wanted and almost brand new. Got that out today and after knocking a few of the more conspicuous knocks and dings out, had a think about mounting it.

It already had two folding handles, but they were not the sort of thing that we could leave on, and the handles couldn't easily be removed without taking the brackets off, which were spot welded onto the tank.

After drilling the welds out, the brackets were modified so that a single 'T' head drawbolt could be fitted and used to hold it down onto the mounting platform.

We also picked up a decent brand new pair of NSK plummers blocks on fleabay, bore is 50mm, slightly larger than we would have preferred, but the price was very good (he still has some left) and we could use a dural bar rather than steel, which would end up slightly lighter than a steel bar of smaller diameter.

I have brought all the sketches and dimensions home with me tonight to thrash out the final drawings. We cut the metal tomorrow....:

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10/04/2009

Spent most of today measuring up bits and pieces and bringing parts up from the house for the engine.

As it was a college engine, it has a variety of add-ons, like tachometer, exhaust temperature gauge, water temperature gauge and the indicator instrument, made by Dobbie Mcinnes.

The temperature gauge we bought new one year at Rushden Cavalcade, but all the other bits came with the engine.

We also got the inverter out and stripped the case, it fitted pretty well after shifting the feet holes a small amount. It has 4 X 13A sockets in it already, and I just need to get the electronics set up for the alternator. It will be repainted in something a little less commercial!

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