Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 2

02/04/2009

Had another long day driving, 500+ miles yesterday and 450+ today, but tomorrow I'm in the factory so a bit of peace and quiet! Wandered up to the factory after dinner and got the drive end plate cleaned up and the armature installed into it.

There is a retaining plate that is on the armature shaft behind the bearing, that is screwed into from the outside by 3 X 1/4" BSF screws. The problem is that the plate is loose and there's a nice big hole inside the armature end where it sits and the screws won't reach! You can't see it either....

Found some long M6 bolts that caught the start of the threaded hole enough to pull the plate onto the back of the bearing. Then found that the holes are not symmetrical in the cover, so had to rotate the cover until the three holes lined up.

Once that was done, it all fitted OK, got to look at the stator and lead-out wires next, they are a bit tatty to say the least.

On the bench assenbling the armature into the end housing.

This is the armature assembly after the new bearings and the end plate were refitted.

Closer shot of the retaining nut that we had trouble with.

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02/04/2009

Turned to the brushgear and stator this morning.

One of the starter brushes had a loose mounting, so the burning that we saw on the commutator was down to that. The other brush was fine.

The retaining ring that supports the brushes was given a quick clean up and spray with some black paint in a rattle can, the brushes and holders were washed out in thinners.

Everything looks fine and reusable, the cables on the stator are a bit old but should be OK for further use, but we may put some more modern sleeving over them for safety.

Shot of the internal wiring and field coils. This is the brushgear end view.

DC Brushgear picture 1.

DC Brushgear picture 2.

DC Brushgear picture 3.

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03/04/2009

Spent an hour or so cleaning out grass and dirt from inside the stator, a few spider's webs and assorted bits of crud.

The drive end has all the interconnections for the alternator and starting DC side taped up, so apart from a clean-up with a stiff brush and vacuum cleaner, that was left alone.

Took a picture of the maker's plate for reference. Got to clean up the AC slipring brushes and the comm end support frame, then it will be final assembly.

The other job is to sort out the control box, and the first job there was to lug the stator unit over to the pillar drill and open up the existing four 2BA threads and re-tap M6. The small rubber mounts always break away with vibration and age, and not worth replacing with the same thing.

New M6 male-male thread are a couple of quid each plus post/carriage, and we also have a largish die-cast ali box to put all the gubbins inside when we are ready. It is a sealed type, so hopefully we won't have to worry about water getting inside.

Shot of the drive end of the stator.

Shot of the nameplate.

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03/04/2009 Continued

The commutator end frame carries the DC and AC brushgear, similar in many ways to the Onan sets we have.

A feature of the Start-O-Matic sets is that the DC and AC circuits share a common ground, so the load sensing side can use the 24V DC feed to sense load being applied.

The frame is pretty simple but does collect a lot of dirt and brush carbon, air is sucked in this end of the generator by the fan at the other end.

All looks well after a quick cleanup, the slipring brushes have one of the flexible copper conductor strips broken, and the tension springs look a tad weak, but in probability they'll be OK. I need to check spring tensions properly.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

Shot of the AC brushes at the commutator end.

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04/04/2009

Calculations:

The Ruston 1ZHR is going to need a larger trolley, as the Start-O-Matic alternator, the drive arrangement, fuel and water tanks and starter batteries are NOT going to fit the existing frame.

After cleaning up the wheels this afternoon, I spent an hour or so with tape measure and paper, working out what will be needed.

The existing trolley frame is 71.5" long, the new one will be just over 98" long, and with the engine, alternator, batteries, carrier wheels and extras, will probably be over a ton and a bit.

The drive from the engine to the alternator is particularly awkward, as the 1ZHR has 3-1/2" rims on the flywheels, but the hubs are getting on for 6" thick. On top of that, you have the cam for working the Indicator (This was ex-Abingdon College) and the pulley for the rev-counter, so it starts to get a bit wide to start adding another pulley outside the flyweels.

Shot of the new flywheel side, showing the indicator cam and mechanism.

There is a 30" 10-groove poly-V pulley that we have, that came off another college 1ZHR and an electric dynamometer with a 7" matching pulley. We also have the belt, although they are easily bought.

Shot of the new flywheel side, showing the 10-groove Poly-V drive pulley.

Without precise measurements, going from one to the other will give us just over the 4:1 step-up that we need, then we have a 10" 2-groove pulley on the alternator that will need something slightly smaller to bring us back to 4:1 exactly (375rpm to 1500rpm)

Looking for plumbers (plummers?) block bearings this afternoon, I found some new NSK 50mm ID bearings on ebay for just over a tenner each, and they can be collected so that saves another 8 on carriage :wink:

A 50mm shaft running under the frame will do what we need and will allow the alternator to be positioned centrally in the frame rails rather than hanging out over one side of the frame.

50mm is a bit of overkill, but the bearings were cheap and we can get 50mm steel easily enough, if we haven't already got it in the metal rack.

Just got to sort out a twin-groove B section V pulley now, anyone got one?

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