Lister 5/1 Diesel

Ruston-Hornsby 1ZHR

Rebuilding the Ruston - Page 1

In 2009 we started to get the Ruston 1ZXR out of hibernation and into a condition where we could start to take it out to shows. Initially we intended to just show the engine, but after a bit of thinking we decided to mount it on a trolley with a generator so that it would be working for a living.

The engine had been stored inside the rear section of the house, and after building works next door we were not able to move it without dismantling it into smaller pieces. This was overcome when we started the rebuild of the top floor of our house, and at the time we had a crane in to lift the roof trusses up, we got them to lift the Ruston out and over onto the waiting trailer, from where it was taken round the corner to the factory compound.

At this stage, we were not able to take it further and complete in time for Nuenen, so instead we took our petter PU8 110V 3kW generator with us, plus some individual PU8 engines in carry frames. Unknown to us at the time, these would end up in a Dutch military museum near Einhoven.

Meanwhile, we had got the Ruston out from under the covers at the factory, and started setting up various configurations of how we would want to show it. We wrote a series of articles/pages on the UK Stationary Engine Forum, and have copied those here. The story starts in February 2009, before we changed that year's Nuenen engine to the Petter PU8 generator.

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22 February 2009

We've started to get the horizontal diesel ready for taking to Nuenen in May, having had it craned out of the back of the house back in December when the roof trusses were done.

There are a few jobs to be done, the biggest being sorting out some wheels for it. Nuenen is sandy and relatively soft, although well-drained, so we are trying to get some largish diameter wheels on it so it will move around OK.

The trolley has been built for 3 years or so, we just haven't had time to get it finished off, and until the crane option turned up, we had no way of getting it out, other than by stripping it right down to small pieces.

The jobs to do are:

1) Make up a cross-bar out of 1-1/4" steel square bar to go under the block, so that the engine front can be bolted down. The holes for the existing block mountings are conflicting with the sides of the trolley beams, although we could do some dog-leg studs I suppose. With only three hold-down bolts, we need to make sure that the fixings are substantial.
2) Cooling system: Just a tank, mounting and piping, nothing special.
3) Exhaust: Ditto, but I'd like a better silencer than the industrial one that came with it. We have a big JP Lister cast silencer and fittings, but it is horribly heavy and quite large. Would sound nice though!
4) Rev-Counter etc: The engine was ex-college, and had an Indicator, rev counter and thermometer. The indicator fittings are all in place, nothing is missing and the instrument itself is also with the engine. The thermometer needs a threaded boss fitting to the water pipes somewhere, we are awaiting a drawing from Ray Hooley for the part we need, but he has an access problem at the old place apparently. The rev counter is an enormous thing with a big cast pedestal and belt driven off a flat belt pulley on the crankshaft, which does limit the positioning somewhat.
5) Fuel tank: We procured a decent tank at Nuenen last year for the princely sum of 10 euros, we also have an oval Stuart-Turner tank that would do the job, although somewhat large.
That's about all, sounds fairly simple, and given time it will all be done.

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27 February 2009

We saw a nice old agricultural trolley at the scrap yard, and after a bit of haggling, the trolley was dug out of the bramble bushes and we collected it on the trailer. We had to shoot straight off after leaving the trailer at the factory, so no pictures yet.

Looks like it could have been a crop sprayer or something like that.

One wheel rim is damaged, chassis looks pretty good and the steering pin looks well rusted in!

Collected a Lister Start-O-Matic alternator from Luton, which is one of the reasons we had to get going, we also had other things to organise.

Thinking along the lines of running the S-O-M unit off the Ruston, and using the S-O-M unit to start it as well. The control stuff is easily done, we don't need the auto-start function and we can arrange voltage control for the charging side.

Have a pair of 12V 105AH batteries doing nothing, the S-O-M unit needs new bearings and possibly brushes, but nothing is damaged and it spins over OK. The speed is 1:4 (375:1500) so a fairly large twin groove pulley is going to be needed to get the alternator spinning at the correct speed.

Starting to gell a bit now there's some hardware on the floor!

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02/03/2009

The Start-O-Matic control box had half a garden growing inside, together with spiders and snails! Gave it a bit of a clean out, looks like it is the later one with the current transformer inside.

The large finned object at the top is the metal rectifier (replaceable by a modern silicon equivalent that is 1/10th the size) below that is the starter solenoid which connects the batter to the starting windings and brushes, below that are the input terminals for the batteries and the input fuse (piece of wire between the big terminals) to the left in the lower centre is the current transformer, then the compound trimming resistor in the bottom left-hand corner, and the main field resistor above that.

The cables that go to the S-O-M alternator go down through the grommeted hole to the left of the battery terminals.

Realistically, it would be easier to build a new, smaller box than restore this one. Apart from the transformer itself, all the other parts we can replace with smaller modern units and make the whole thing much more compact. I'll need to talk with David Harris and find out what the dissipation of the field resistor is so that I can get a replacement.

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24/03/2009

After that, we moved on to the alternator itself.

Got the pulley off yesterday, took the armature out today and gave it a clean-up and skim on the lathe.

The nut holding the bearing onto the armature is 2-1/4" AF, not a spanner that we keep in the toolbox!

It is awfully tight as well, we ended up with large steelsons and holding the armature in the 3-jaw chuck in the lathe, but couldn't shift it. Ended up with the armature in the 4-jaw chuck, locked the lathe in Back Gear and used the big steelsons to get it undone.

The sliprings were a bit chattery in the picture, but we did smooth that out before removing it from the lathe. The commutator segment slots were also cleaned out to prevent shorts between the segments from copper swarf and carbon deposits.

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