We now had to go outside and tackle the door and cut out for the cassette toilet. It was OK inside, but the cassette had to be emptied by taking it out of the side of the vehicle,
and that mean cutting a large hole in the side of the trailer to take the door and surround. We had problems wqith getting the correct template for the hole, and the door and
surround we had was not original to our toilet, the one on the caravan being damaged in the accident it had been involved in.
We had two template sets, but we weren't happy with either, and in the end we did our own version, based around the two templates which worked a treat.
First cut of the aperture for the toilet. Got it right first time, which was a big relief!
The door and frame were next, and we had no real issues, apart from needing to cut a filler piece out for the door from the material we cut out before.
Door and frame in place, sealed with Sikaflex 221.
Filler piece in place and all sealed up nicely.
The exterior fitting of the water heater went OK, the heater has to be inserted from the outside, and being a balanced flue boiler it has no need of air from inside the trailer. The unit is
pretty robust and easy to fit. We didn't fit a support under the other end inside the trailer as we don't travel with it full of water, but one of these days I'll cut a block to go under it for peace of mind.
We didn't actually seal the unit against the body until the following year, just one of those things that slipped my mind!
Water heater in place, trim cover to go on yet.
Water heater trim cover fitted. Water filler point to the left.
Meanwhile, we had been getting pipes and cables and stuff like that installed between the kitchen area and the water heater, and also we were fitting vents into the floor
under the kitchen and around the water heater. To get at the 'back' of the kitchen unit, we cut out a large hole in the centre bulkhead, and after trimming and fitting
some extrusion round it, we were able to use that as a removeable cover for access to the wiring and gas.
Access panel in place.
Floor vent holes, for inlet air and for gas to escape if leaking. Access cover removed in this shot.
Water heater gas and electric feeds, plus Hot & Cold water pipes, running round behind the toilet.
Copper pipes going to be replaced with plated steel pipes.
While not being over-complex, there was a lot of pipes and wiring going on behind there: we had 12V from the towing vehicle to the fridge, 12V from the trailer battery to the gas ignitors
on the fridge, cooker hob and oven, switched 12V from the water taps to the water pump relay, gas for all appliances and 230V for the fridge and water heater, extended from the
heater switch point to the other 230V socket by the front cupboard.
The 230V feed was protected at the mains distribution unit by a 6A MCB and an RCD. The 12V side was a little more complex, as we had feeds from the 12S socket on the towing
vehicle to power the fridge, plus 12V for the spark ignitors for both the fridge and the cooker and oven. On top of that lot, we had to run gas and electrics round to the side where the
water heater was located.
This is how it started off.
Round the back, we had connected up all the services.Fridge on the left, cooker hob and oven on the right.
Drill battery charger on top of the winch, temporary 12V feed coming out of the terminal blocks.
Terminals carry 12V vehicle feed to fridge, 12V to fridge ignitor, 12V to cooker ignitor (red block)
12V to water heater controller, 240V to fridge, 240V to water heater, 12V switched feed to water pump relay.
Main LPG safety taps.
Having got most of that sorted out, we had to get the LPG tank, regulator, fillers points and piping installed. The trailer was to have a refillable LPG vapour tank
which we could fill up at the same time as the car, and being fixed in place we couldn't forget to bring it, and if we ran out of gas we could just take the trailer to
the nearest service station with LPG and get it refilled. No bottle exchange or wrong regulators.