Lister 5/1 Diesel

Lister Restoration & Rebuild

Obtaining & Restoring Your First Engine


Chapter 2 -


Transportation


After you have purchased your engine, you will have to transport it home before you can work on it. Some vendors will have their own transport and may offer to drop it round if they are reasonably close to your home. If not, and the engine is a large one like the Lister 10/2, then you will have to organise transport.

The options available are as follows:-
1) Use a trailer on your own or a friends car.
2) Hire a van.
3) Use a carrier or haulage company.

USING A TRAILER.
This is the favourite option, as long as you have a towing car that will cope with the weight of the trailer and engine. Note that new Driving Licence restrictions come into effect from 1st January 1997 which limit new licence holders when towing a trailer. The trailer and load weight must not exceed the recommended manufacturers weight for the car, and in any case the weight of the trailer and load should not exceed 90% of the cars unladen weight. See later on for some further information on trailers.

HIRING A VAN.
Next best option as you get to supervise the loading and driving yourself, and can make sure that the engine is safely transported in one piece to your home or workshop. Van hire companies are plentiful, but make sure that the van you hire has doors which allow access into the back without restriction which would prevent a fork truck or tractor getting close enough to drop the engine in. Upwards hinging doors on Astra's, Midi's and the like are not so easy to load under as side opening doors such as are used on Transit's and Escort vans. If you are travelling long distances to collect your engine, check on mileage or fuel charges, and see if you can have a one-way hire, which allows you to leave the van at a different depot to that which it came from originally.

USING A CARRIER.
The least favoured option, but it does relieve you of all the dirty work and driving. Most hauliers will quote for carriage of heavy items such as engines, as long as they are not in a thousand bits, and any packaging is secure and not liable to disintegrate en-route. The best way to transport an engine is to get it strapped to a pallet either in large bits or complete. Most hauliers have pallet trucks in their lorries which the driver can collect pallets with using the vehicle tail-lift. Points to watch out for include making sure that the engine is drained of any oil, fuel and water before collection, and also sorting out insurance cover if the hauliers in-house limit is not going to cover the value of your engine. Most hauliers will deliver to your door, and as long as you can arrange a delivery time so that you can be there, the driver will usually give you a hand in to the house or workshop with the engine.

GENERAL LOADING TIPS
Load security is very important when carrying a heavy unit load such as a Lister 10/2 engine. The engine weight is half a ton (actually 1129 lbs is the quoted weight) and once moving around in the back of your van this lump will cause an enormous amount of damage if it gets loose, even to the extent of overturning a van. Ratchet load straps are the preferred method of retention, and most trailer and van hirers can either sell or hire them. They are simple to use and very effective. The name of the game is to stop the engine moving at all if possible, and the straps should be checked during the journey to make sure that they have not worked loose. The straps are of no use if the structure they are secured to is insufficient to take the load of the engine, and you must make sure that the attachment points are adequate for the job in hand. Ask the hire company before you go, as any damage caused by the engine coming loose will be your responsibility.

Restrain the engine from moving in at least two opposite directions, and place a sheet of ply under the engine to provide more friction between the base of the engine and the metal floor of the van or trailer. Drive with care and avoid sudden braking and acceleration. Do not take roundabouts and corners at speed, and keep an eye out for bumps in the road which may cause the engine to move. Once the engine is home you can relax and look forward to a few weeks or months of hard restoration work.

PERSONAL HYGIENE.
One final item; personal hygiene. Too many fitters neglect the very important subject of skin care, resulting in skin rashes or worse later on. Old engines, old engine oil and most diesel components contain liquids that are full of skin irritants. Handling engine parts transfers these irritants to your skin, with nearly always some sort of skin complaint resulting from the contact. A water based barrier cream such as Rosalex or equivalent should be used, and particular care should be taken to fill the areas between the finger nails and the quick. Apart from preventing infection, there is a side benefit of being able to wash your hands afterwards without leaving black and dirty finger nails.

A good quality hand cleaner with granules such as Suprega will quickly clean off ingrained dirt. Do not use Swarfega with some sand thrown in, as it will quickly cause far more damage than the original dirt. After you have washed your hands, a small amount of skin moisturising cream from your favourite lady will prevent your skin drying and cracking after you have dried your hands. It is only a small point, but it does make a lot of difference to your skin, especially when handling diesel components!

© Peter & Rita Forbes 2000 - 2003


Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7

Appendices Index Main